Changer le châssis central d'une Nintendo Switch

Rédigé par : Jerry Wheeler

Commentaires : 188

Changer le châssis central d'une Nintendo Switch

Difficulté

Difficile

Étapes

Temps nécessaire

2 heures

Introduction

En dehors des dommages catastrophiques, la principale raison de changer le châssis central sur une Nintendo Switch est que le rail d'un Joy-Con ait été brutalement arraché du châssis central, ne laissant aucun support solide pour un rail de remplacement.

Afin de restaurer la sécurité du support Joy-Con, il est nécessaire de remplacer l'ensemble du châssis central. Ce tutoriel vous guidera tout au long de la procédure.

Remarque : Lorsque vous retirez la plaque de protection, vous devez remplacer la pâte thermique entre la plaque et le dissipateur thermique. Étant donné que la pâte thermique normale n'est pas conçue pour combler de grands trous, l'alternative la plus proche est la pâte thermique visqueuse K5 Pro. Vous aurez cependant besoin d'une pâte thermique de remplacement standard pour le CPU.

Outils

Pièces

Étape 1

Avant de commencer cette réparation JoyCon Switch, assurez-vous que la manette est complètement éteinte.
Appuyez sur le petit bouton rond à l'arrière de la JoyCon et maintenez-le enfoncé.
Pendant que vous maintenez le bouton enfoncé, faites glisser la Joy-Con vers le haut.

Kann ich diese Anleitung auch für die OLED anwenden? Habe im INet sonst leider nichts brauchbares gefunden.

Ina Barz -

backup all your sd card data i had to format mine after this tutorial and lost all my game data

JustForThisComment?ComeOn -

do not watch the video! i broke the metal shielding on my switch because they didn't mention a screw!!!

Macro Man -

Étape 2

Continuez à faire glisser la Joy-Con vers le haut, jusqu'à ce qu'elle soit complètement retirée de la console.
Répétez le processus pour l'autre JoyCon.

Étape 3

Utilisez un tournevis Y00 pour dévisser les quatre vis de 6,3 mm qui fixent la coque arrière.
Tout au long de cette réparation Nintendo Switch, gardez la trace de chacune des vis et veillez à les revisser toutes là où elles étaient auparavant pour éviter d'endommager votre appareil.

Had to use a Y0 from my kit - the Y00 was too small to get a grip on the screw.

cday - 05/06/21

I also had a much easier time with Y0 versus Y00. Y00 felt like it was starting to strip the first screw I tried to remove.

Joe -

My screws took a little coaxing before they were all ready to come out of the back plate, but I remedied this by turning the screwdriver as little as possible with each turn. Use almost no pressure, except for at the very beginning of each screw’s first turn.

nin10doh -

I think my screws are stripped, any way to get them out?

Banjomanperson -

I hear that using a rubber band can help? Not 100% sure on that though.

Pifase -

My top 2 screws are stripped, one into triangle, the other circle, rather than triangle spokes.

AndrewDaPro -

This happened when I replaced the micro-sd card slot, which turned out to have replaced the broken one with another one that turns out to be broken. I need to fix the fact that when I reapplied the back cover, the vent was misaligned.

AndrewDaPro -

I had huge problems removing the bottom two screws. I continued with the next steps and lifted the plastic shell as much as possible while using the screwdriver and it became an ease.

JustForThisComment?ComeOn -

y0 works best. Press HARD at beginning then ease off to finish.

J LWsMommy -

what to do if your screw is stripped??

suru -

I haven't tried neither solutions that I am gonna propose here but

1. Poor some Isopropyl Alcohol, one small drop will do, get a piece of cotton (not any clothing) and dip it in the Isopropyl Alcohol, apply and then try to get a grip with tweezers and turn it out

OR (I do not reccomend it since it can cause huge damage if done wrong)

2. Grab a small drill and drill through the screw. Keep in mind; the screw is very small.

If you do one of these and it goes wrong, I am not responsible for that.

DongComArts -

I had to file down the point of the y00 bit. As it came, I was not able to get the back screws out. It would just slip in the screw.

Dave -

Étape 4

Utilisez un tournevis JIS #000, ou un tournevis cruciforme iFixit officiel PH 000, pour retirer les vis suivantes qui fixent la coque arrière :
Une vis de 2,5 mm sur le bord supérieur de l'appareil
Deux vis de 2,5 mm sur le bord inférieur de l'appareil
Pour éviter que ces vis serrées s'abîment, exercez une force ferme vers le bas, travaillez lentement et essayez un autre tournevis JIS 000 ou PH 000 si les vis ne sortent pas.

Hey guys, I tried removing the upper screw and it won't go out(neither will it go in) any tips how to fix this?

Thanks

Nemysis - 27/03/21

The screw boss might be stripped out. Has the device been taken apart before? If you can unscrew it a little bit to get the screw to peek out, maybe try and grab it with some pliers as a last-ditch effort.

Craig Lloyd - 29/03/21

I have the same problem. The JIS 000 tool works great on the joy con rails per step 5 but refuses to turn the bottom two 2.5 mm screws as in step 4. These bottom screws are noticeably smaller than the screws as in step 5. The JIS 000 does not get down into these screws. Hopefully they haven’t been stripped by the wrong tool. So is there a JIS tool that is smaller than 000? I’m stuck at this point…

david brown - 28/04/21

We used the JIS 3.0mm screwdriver for both top and bottom screws and it worked

Brooklyn Gardner - 07/05/21

Used PH00 to get these out with no problem.

cday - 05/06/21

Fun fact: these screw into little plastic tabs that stick out of the rear panel. Apparently those tabs are fragile and easy to just break off…

Benjamin Fritz -

If the screw is turning but not coming out, the plastic tab that it screws into is probably damaged or broken. You’ll need to try to pry the screw out with tweezers as you unscrew it. It is not the end of the world if you can’t screw these back in during reassembly.

claudio ocano -

My screws came out fine. But they are easily stripped with too much pressure on reassmbly

Jaxon Lee -

this screws are way too fragile and way too small so be careful when taking them off dont use much force and unscrew also one of them fell somewhere and spent 30 mins searching for it

Richard Aguirre -

PH000 will work if you don’t have JIS000. The large IFIXIT kit has both and I lost JIS000. Just be very careful as you can strip the heads when removing or inserting easier.

Shawn Spivey -

One thing that worked pretty well for me with the screws not coming out is slightly prying on the back cover to put them under some tension

Florian Kraupa -

Quick note, these screws are not magnetic. A magnetic screwdriver will hold onto any of the others safely, but you need to be careful not to drop these ones in particular.

Jason Lane -

These would just keep rotating and not come out. What worked was, as Florian Kraupa suggested, i slid a plastic pick just between the 2 shells near the screws to prise it open slightly, then unscrewed and out they came. They're the smallest screws I've ever almost not seen before, so be careful with them.

Susannah Carter -

Étape 5

Utilisez un tournevis JIS #000, ou un tournevis officiel iFixit PH 0000, pour retirer les deux vis centrales de 3,8 mm sur les côtés de l'appareil (une de chaque côté).

I tried my JIS 000 on Step 5 and was unable to get the screw to budge. It’s partner from the other side came right out with no trouble. Don’t really want to narf up the screw, so I bailed out. Anyone else have this issue?

mrhoyt - 04/03/21

Could just be torqued down a bit more! I’d recommend making sure the driver bit seats nicely into the screw, apply some downward pressure, and slowly twist to try and back it out. Good luck!

Craig Lloyd - 05/03/21

Yeah I’m having this exact issue. Screw stripped and now I’m stuck. Wish I hadn’t even started.

Ryan Quinn - 22/05/21

I did finally get it out- one thing I noticed was some of the screws have blue Loctite on the threads. I guess they figure it’ll get tossed around. This underscores the importance of having the correct tools and making double darn sure you are using the correct size, etc.

mrhoyt - 05/03/21

What worked for me here was a Phillips 000, not a JIS 000

Federico Zivolo - 21/04/21

One of mine is totally stripped. Guess I can’t do anything now.

Nick -

My kit only has two screwdriver heads! The package was open when I received it!

Cynthia Hyland -

I had this issue as well. Screw was irreparably stripped. If you can get every other screw out, just keep applying pressure with a flat head screw driver right above the stripped screw and try to break the plastic piece holding onto the screw. It's a very minor invisible bit of damage that will allow you to continue the repair.

Raymond Garrison -

after getting all the other screws off I just hinged the back part away and it snapped off neatly where the rusted screw is. not the best solution but it worked.

Steve T -

One of my screws was SUPER attached too, but after following a bit noticed the one other in the left that got out nicely, had the plastic tab broken already! So I went ahead and broke the other tab too. So the two side screws are now holding nothing. But I think it will work thanks to the other 4 or 5 screws. Too bad!

carolaclavo -

i managed to get out one screw by putting a bit of paper over it which gave the screwdriver something to grip. The other side just won't budge and gets worse the more i try.

Steve T -

Étape 6

Utilisez votre doigt pour ouvrir le support à l'arrière de l'appareil.
Si une carte micro SD est présente dans l'emplacement pour carte micro SD, retirez-la maintenant avant de passer à l'étape suivante.

Don't put your SD card on your magnetic mat.

Chris Cotter -

Étape 7

Utilisez un tournevis JIS #000, ou bien un tournevis iFixit officiel PH 000, pour dévisser la vis de 1,6 mm du support.
Fermez le support.

Étape 8

Ouvrez le rabat du lecteur de carte de jeu.
Le rabat du lecteur de carte de jeu est fixé à l'autre moitié de la coque en plastique, vous empêchant de soulever complètement la coque arrière s'il est fermé.
Soulevez la coque arrière depuis le bas de l'appareil et retirez-la.

How to remove micro SD port?

Pull straight up, press back into place when closing back up.

Christopher Hernandez - 02/03/21

This step is missing in this guide. Here are the steps from another guide:

Step 9) Remplacement du rail du Joy Con droit de la Nintendo Switch

Step 10) Remplacement du rail du Joy Con droit de la Nintendo Switch

David -

When I lifted up the back cover, it kind of stuck near the headphone port (even with cartridge slot open). But it wasn't a screw or anything and I kind of carefully pulled and wiggled and the cover came off ok

Doe -

+1, there is definitely an extra clip there on my day 1 switch

repofmady -

I wasn't so careful here and found out during reassembly that I accidentally broke off the clip with the screw hole on the top of the back cover (the clip fell off the device when I turned it over), so I can't put the top screw back in, but oh well at least the back cover is still affixed to the device otherwise

Justin Johnson -

Are the little foam pads on the bottom back of the panel needed? They were removed from a panel I have.

Type1Guy -

Étape 9

Utilisez un tournevis JIS 000 ou un tournevis iFixit PH 000 pour retirer la vis de 3,1 mm qui fixe le lecteur de carte micro SD.

Étape 10

Utilisez vos doigts ou une pincette pour soulever le lecteur de carte microSD de l'appareil afin de le déconnecter et de le retirer.
Lors du remontage, assurez-vous que le connecteur à emboîter sous le morceau de mousse est fermement connecté à la carte mère. Il peut être utile de retirer le morceau de mousse avant de réinstaller le lecteur de carte.

Yes. The reverse is not so simple- you can’t see what you’re doing when you attempt to reconnect and it only takes one small error to completely bend the contacts on the connector. Very delicate.

if you very gently remove the foam pad sticker, you can at least see better how it lines up and can feel your way to a degree… then you can stick the pad back in. The pad seems pretty critical in keeping things in place once reassembled.

holmzee - 08/12/19

Definitely agree about not sticking the foam pad back on until the new SD card slot is connected. Saved a lot of headache. Great walkthrough and easy repair!

Jonathan Stachewicz - 06/01/21

Tried several times to replace this SD reader module. As mentioned above, the issue is aligning the connectors together. It appears the foam tape is being used to hold the connection in place. (assuming you can make a viable connection) I am rather surprised at this design. In my experience, mylar ribbon cables like this usually slide into a small PC mounted socket. It appears Nintendo went the cheap route here. This design is prone to failure since it does not enable a positive connection - at least from what I can see.

Bill Little - 28/12/19

Alors je suis en détresse total . Jai cassé les bouches en or sur le connecteur qui est soudé sur la carte mère.. comment changer cette toute petite pièces, oû la trouver . Cela fais 1 mois que je cherche partout. Sans remplacer la carte mère. Merci pour vos réponses

Mike Snow - 23/03/20

I found it easier to connect it without the black foam pad so I could see and than add the foam pad over it. It was super easy and I an I 33 Mom doing this for my son. Was well worth the money for the kit saved us almost 100 bucks

Katherine Harrison - 12/05/20

Had my son follow this guide to fix his own switch where the ad card reader didn't work. And he did. Great instructions!!!! Thanks a million!

William Scott - 04/07/20

The only difficult part of following this guide is connecting the new sd card reader into the poorly designed motherboard connector. Its quite possible the sd card reader that came in the console wasnt broken at all.

The repair kit works just as advertised and even comes with stickers.

Matthias_ Links - 21/10/20

I’m still getting error 2002-2054 even after replacing memory card reader module. Thanks, Nintendo!

Wes Stephenson - 26/12/20

My switch won’t read my microSD card after I reassembled it (error 2016-0641) please help!

Nate Topical - 01/01/21

Tip: Keep the old SD reader piece loosely attached while you line up and gently press the new SD component into the connector on the motherboard. Once the new piece is snug, then carefully remove the old piece keeping the sticky foam in place.

I am a middle-aged mom with absolutely no special tech skills and I easily followed the directions and successfully fixed the broken SD drive. ifixit is the best!

Wende David - 29/01/21

Ah good! i have more confidence now in doing it once you said you're a middle age mom with no experience

Mohammad Hosein Yavari -

I missed this bit about reconnecting the SD card reader under the foam pad and didn’t realise until my son pointed out a data storage problem?. All fixed in about 5 minutes taking advice from the replacing the SD card reader fix, especially removing the foam pad from the connector to better see and feel what you’re doing. All sorted!

Stuart Farquharson-Roberts - 28/03/21

Awesome guide! Very easy to do with the supplied kit

cravenkeo khamone - 13/05/21

Tank you very much, and by tank I mean M1 Abrams, jokes apart easy and simple to follow

Elia Veschi -

Thanks for the guide, I was struggling to find a solution, replaced more sd cards, before I stumbled upon this post. The Switch of my children works flawless again!

Robert Morvai - 25/08/21

Doesn’t work! I have spent 4 hours and $26 on a tiny screwdriver and some stickers.. I just gave up and replaced the Switch instead.

I even contacted a local shop to have them fix it and they told me it really isn’t possible. Thanks for taking my money Ifixit!

J.R. Wood -

This helped me to reseat my SD card reader ribbon cable. I was getting the 2016-0641 error and no card work. A drop had dislodged the cable partially. And yes remove the foam pad gently to properly connect the cable. You can reuse the foam pad.

Kris Morey -

For anyone who ends up bending the pins like I did while trying to reseat the microSD card reader…

I suggest gently placing very thin tweezers (like the curved ones in the Pro Tool Kit) in the gap and very, very gently pressing them back into alignment. Took a little effort but I was able to realign them enough to sit it in place and have it later working after reassembling the console.

Yakarot Sennin - 13/01/22

Anyone have a suggestion where I can purchase replacement foam for this sticker?

Rob M -

When reassembling, note the alignment pins in the left and bottom notches before tightening the screw

Jason Lane -

Super gemakkelijk te installeren met behulp van deze zeer duidelijke handleiding (met dank aan de vertalers!)

Wel even goed opletten op de aansluiting op het moederbord is zeer fragiel.

R de Bruijne -

It is key to remember most out of the box issues with the SD card reader, do not require a replacement part and can be solved with disconnecting then re-connecting the reader at the motherboard.

Only when a simple re-seating at the connector doesn't work should you buy the replacement part.

Jonathon Sinclair -

I bought the kit and followed the directions. I plucked the black rubber foam off with a pair of eyelash tweezers. Putting the tiny screws back in place also was made easier using the tweezers. As for placing the SD card in place I think I got a bit lucky. I lined it up and gently pressed until it simply went into place. I do believe being gentle is the key there. But it went in and I put it back together. The deconstructing and reconstructing is what took the longest for me at least. I turned it on to verify it worked and then unpowered the unit and inserted the card. The system recognized and update right away and did it and then recognized the card! Just what I need for 20 something dollars. Son is happy and back to gaming.

Albert Baker -

Thank you for postingthis fix. The original sd card reader had come unplugged from the motherboard, so replacement reader will be a spare.

Anybody found a way to ensure the sd reader stays in place?

Craig Thwaites -

It was my first time repairing a Switch and the fan replacement wasn't too hard, but unfortunately I think there should be a better warning about the SD card connector because I damaged it while trying to put it back in. I couldn't hear any click and it didn't seem to stay put and I think I ended up applying to much force and damaging the pins.

Serge Huber -

What are the foam black squares called and where can I get a replacement for one?

Marcus -

It’s called Foam tape

Alberto -

What is the error code 404 for

Alberto -

Managed to push the connector back in with foam on, used back of plastic tool to push secure and once completed was able to use the SD port again. Brilliant little guide.

Dominic Jones -

so how would you theroedictly put the old slot back on.

and how does if even work

Shadow Dragon -

Horrible guide, incomplete. Needs to show how to reattach the new reader but doesn't show anything. This makes it incredibly easy to bend pins that become incredibly difficult to fix. Ended up bending pins on the connector beyond repair as I didn't know what to look for or how to reattach it. Wouldn't recommend

Blake Thorne -

Tried to do this, everything went smoothly I thought, but when I turn on system w SD card in the new slot, immediately freezes up the system completely until I hard shut down. Did I do something wrong?

Nate Akers -

"Draw the rest of the !@#$ing owl"

Droideka30 -

Étape 11

Utilisez un tournevis JIS 000 ou un tournevis iFixit PH 000 pour retirer les six vis de 3 mm qui fixent la plaque de protection.

Some models have a small board in the lower left beneath the kickstand which accepts SD cards. This will have to be carefully removed with its connections popped out, then replaced after.

Draque Thompson -

Yeah, that “small board” is the microSD Card reader chip, which was covered literally one step ago. All models have a microSD Card reader, that’s how game data is stored…

nin10doh - 12/12/21

My switch had loctite (or similar) on the bottom right screw (farthest right), ended up striping it and having to use a Dremel to cut a slot in the screw to get it out. I've heard that heat (solder gun) can be used to loosen loctite, hindsight. Only screw I found with loctite.

Rachael Webster -

Étape 12

Utilisez vos doigts ou une pincette pour décoller le morceau de mousse sur le bord supérieur de l'appareil, près de la sortie d'air du ventilateur.
Si la mousse ne se décolle pas facilement, ne forcez pas, car elle pourrait finir par se déchirer. Décollez-la soigneusement à différents endroits pour la retirer.

My Switch (bought about two weeks after launch) seems to be missing this foam piece… Was it added later, similar to the foam piece in the left joy-con (to improve connectivity)?

firetech - 05/02/21

It’s possible it was added to newer units! Nintendo slightly updated the internals of the Switch not too long ago.

Craig Lloyd - 05/02/21

My launch Switch also does not have this piece of foam, so it was most likely added later.

Christoph -

Also did not see this in my launch switch.

matthew.raehl -

Me three, no foam.

carolaclavo -

Étape 13

Insérez une spatule (spudger) sous la plaque de protection, le long du bord de l'appareil.
Soulevez la plaque de protection et ôtez-la de la console.
Vous pouvez ressentir un peu de résistance. Ceci est normal, car la plaque de protection est légèrement collée au dissipateur thermique avec de la pâte thermique.
De la pâte thermique épaisse rose comble l'espace entre la plaque de protection et le dissipateur thermique en cuivre en dessous. Cela aide à prévenir la surchauffe de la Switch.
Vous pouvez réutiliser la pâte thermique rose si vous êtes prudent. Gardez la pâte propre et assurez-vous qu'elle fasse un bon contact entre le dissipateur thermique et la plaque durant le remontage.
Si vous devez la remplacer durant le remontage, consultez notre tutoriel de pâte thermique pour retirer l'ancienne couche de pâte thermique et la remplacer avec une pâte appropriée, comme la K5 Pro.

How do you know if the thermal paste needs to be replaced?

Youji Hong - 27/08/19

Once you remove a heatsink you must always replace thermal paste even if you had just applied it ( or add a little more) . The reason is that once heat sink is fitted, paste splits around because of pressure and only needed amount will remain. If you remove the heatsink then some paste will move so when installed again there will be spots without paste. Hope this is clear enough. In any case cost of paste is very small compared to work time and value of your equipment…..

MacTek - 15/12/19

When your switch starts to lag and drop FPS, if you play breath of the wild and it starts to slow down in heavy areas like the forest where you get the master sword, can i use artic mx 4 insted of the pink compound?

Diego Soto - 30/08/19

I’d like to know as well if a cpu thermal compound like arctic mx-4 can be used to replace the pink compound

Adam Stillman - 06/09/19

No you shouldn't . It will spill around because it is not viscous enough and then there will be no heat transfer. As suggested by author K5 PRO is the most appropriate compound for such cases.

MacTek - 15/12/19

Arctic is generally only supposed to be used on bigger heat sinks like a personal computer. Its not nearly as thick or gummy compared to K5 PRO, and you should always use something that’s thicker for smaller project like a Switch/phone/tablet.

Shawn Christensen - 20/12/19

Why was this not included in the tools/equipment list? Getting to this step and now I will have to reverse and wait for yet another order to arrive. ? Very frustrated

Amanda Nally - 12/03/21

Hi Amanda,

Thanks for bringing this up. Sorry! We inadvertently left that part out during the guide refresh. I’ll add the necessary info into the step.

Arthur Shi - 12/03/21

I agree with Amanda, hopefully I don't lose any parts before I can get the paste. This seems like it should almost be included in this kit from what I've read about this repair. Mine certainly needs to be replaced. I feel like at the very least, this should be at the top of the guide and part order page in bold, red, all cap lettering.

Side note this is the only "issue" I've had of the 4 purchases I've made with ifixit. I recommend you guys every chance I get. I really enjoy doing these repairs with my son.

Zach Bryson -

To apply new thermal paste, the directions state to use the application method recommended for your specific processor type—vertical line, horizontal line, middle dot, or surface spread.

Which method should be used for the Nintendo Switch processor?

Philip W -

As stated in the comment above, is there a particular method to apply thermal paste to the Switch’s processor? Or as long as you distribute it evenly is enough?

lievjorg -

Is another thermal compound as MX4 or 6 okay as well?

Marceau -

does ifixit not have an appropriate thermal paste for this step?
there is only arctic silver 5 in the kit and i would guess that that should not be used in this case.
if true, the kit is incomplete

Lucas Tigy -

This step is also completely glossed over in the YouTube walkthrough, which doesn’t even hint at the existence of the pink paste.

Phokal -

Since I couldn't find decently priced K5 I used a 0.5mm thick thermal pad and that seems to have done the trick quite well.

Dupont Nicolas -

Étape 14

Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule pour soulever le connecteur de la batterie vers le haut et le sortir de sa prise sur la carte mère.

be careful not to pry it off the board entirely

Nathan McKenna -

This was an old switch and the entire thing with the black plastic came off.. Most of the pins aren't there anymore, too.. is there a solution to that? Does soldering work?

Dawn Martin -

it's probably possible, but unless you have experience with microsoldering, you'd probably be better off taking it to a local repair shop

just some mango -

This step just ruined my device… wish there had been a warning of caution here.

Phone guy -

You can use a spudger to hold down the black plastic side of this connector that is supposed to stay attached to the motherboard while using the pointy spudger as shown in order to reduce any chance of pulling the socket off the motherboard.

Brian Edgin -

Étape 15

Appliquez quelques gouttes de dissolvant pour adhésif ou d'alcool isopropylique concentré (>90 %) à l'intérieur de la batterie, le long du bord supérieur, pour ramollir l'adhésif.
Si vous utilisez un dissolvant pour adhésif, suivez d'abord ces étapes de préparation.

you gqve me a rag with 70% or higher pad

md cu -

I found a better method of removing the battery:

1. Get isopropyl in the battery groove. (I used 70%)

2. Use the spudger to lift a corner slightly.

3. Use dental floss to under the corner and carefully floss under the battery. This will remove the adhesive in a very clean and easy way because you allow the isopropyl to get further down!

StankIntern -

this is the way.

Brian Duffy -

Yes, floss is the way to go. Started getting the floss under upper right corner then after flossing some, I worked the floss under the upper left corner. More flossing and adding alcohol and battery came loose.

John Coleman -

I also didn’t manage to get the battery out using the recommended method on a Day 1 Switch.

At work we use „Industrie Clean“ by Würth, for removing residue of adhesives. This worked like a charm on the batteries adheisive after torturing it with 99% Isopropanol for 20 minutes. Maybe it was the combination of both, I don’t know.

https://eshop.wuerth.de/Produktkategorie...

Oliver T. -

Could I use a heat gun on a low setting for this part?

ZaM -

Étape 16

Inclinez le bord supérieur de l'appareil vers le haut pour permettre à l'alcool isopropylique de pénétrer sous la batterie.
Tenez cette position 1 à 2 minutes afin de laisser à l'alcool isopropylique le temps de ramollir l'adhésif.

Étape 17

Insérez un médiator dans l'espace entre la batterie et son compartiment.
Enfoncez soigneusement la pointe du médiator sous la batterie et faites-la glisser le long du bord pour commencer à trancher l'adhésif.
Veillez à ni percer ni plier la batterie avec votre outil. Une batterie perforée ou tordue peut laisser s'échapper des produits chimiques dangereux ou prendre feu.

I'm sad to say, this kit did not work out for me. I must be one of the unlucky ones whose battery was glued to the case with the mother of all super adhesives, because despite following the instructions and using copious amounts of isopropyl alcohol, the battery absolutely refused to budge. The pictures show the blue pick wedged under the battery, but I was not able to get that far. Not even close.

To add insult to injury, during the process of working the pick back and forth to get under the battery, the pick jumped the case housing and nicked one of the cables below the battery. So now I'm out $50 for the ifixit repair kit along with a broken Nintendo Switch.

This is why I hate self repair: Because the attempt at self-repair always leaves me in a worse state than if I had simply taken the device to a professional. Wish I had listened to my instincts instead of giving self-repair a try.

Kie Rhee - 13/01/23

I struggled to remove the battery using 91% alcohol as well. In another guide I saw that a heat gun works better. I used my heat gun and it removed much much easier.

James Covey -

If you have problems here, try slipping the pick under the "bottom" edge instead. It seemed to slide under better for me from that angle.

Andrew Hamberg -

Please remember to consider the complexity of the self repair. This is considered moderate - but that is a moderate for someone with confidence in self repair. If you “hate” self repair then I would not suggest doing anything above the lowest difficulty. Sorry to hear about your attempt and I hope it works out for you.

Justin (WizardRiot) -

I would suggest to insert a spudger from the cable side, to slight lift the battery, instead of inserting a pick from the other side.

tliu93 -

Thats what did the trick for me. Tried several minutes from the other top side of the Switch but finally made it from the cabel side of the battery. Used some Isopropyl alcohol right from the start but couldnt lift the battery from the top side.

ShedaoShai -

Could not the the glue to dissolve. Worked better with my heatgun.

Johan Samuelsson -

I tried to do this with the 90 % alcohol but wasn't working so I grabbed my wife's Dyson hair dryer and within 1 minute it was off. I was ready to give up but the hair dryer worked perfectly. Great instructions. Get a magnet pad to organize the screws.

Michael Brown -

Working from the cable side did the trick for me. Put 3 squirts of 90% alcohol and then worked with a card, pick and spudger on the battery. It took about 5 minutes of gentle prying, but the battery did free itself and no damage was done.

meh -

Étape 18

Laissez le médiator en place et appliquez quelques gouttes supplémentaires de dissolvant pour adhésif ou d'alcool isopropylique dans le compartiment de la batterie.
Inclinez le bord supérieur de l'appareil vers le haut et attendez 1 à 2 minutes que l'alcool isopropylique ramollisse l'adhésif.

Étape 19

Continuez à faire glisser le médiator plus profondément le long du bord supérieur de la batterie, en tranchant davantage d'adhésif.

Étape 20

Une fois qu'il y a assez de place, insérez une carte en plastique sous la batterie et soulevez-la lentement.
Vous devrez peut-être appliquer plus d'alcool isopropylique si vous avez du mal à faire levier.
Veillez à ne pas déformer la batterie lorsque vous faites levier.
Retirez la batterie.
Ne réutilisez pas la batterie après son retrait, car cela est dangereux. Remplacez-la par une nouvelle batterie.

I carefully took the spongy part on the top of this battery and applied it to the new battery. No where in this guide does it recommend replacing that part. So I erred on the side of since I could get it off easily enough to just keep it on the new one just in case.

Josh Reed -

Étape 21

Utilisez un dissolvant pour adhésif ou de l'alcool isopropylique et un chiffon en microfibre pour nettoyer tout adhésif restant dans le compartiment de la batterie avant d'installer la nouvelle batterie.
Si votre nouvelle batterie n'est pas livrée avec de l'adhésif préinstallé, suivez ce tutoriel pour poser l'adhésif prédécoupé sous la batterie.

I think the adhesive strips must be old, because it was an absolute PITA getting both sides to separate. I wound up getting a razor blade to get under the non-adhesive side with the iFixit logo.

mbelanger -

Étape 22

Utilisez un tournevis JIS 000 ou un tournevis iFixit PH 000 pour retirer les 3 vis de 3 mm qui fixent le dissipateur thermique à la carte mère.

Étape 23

Utiliser le bout plat d'une spatule ou vos doigts pour retirer délicatement la mousse qui adhère légèrement au ventilateur.

Utiliser le bout plat d'une spatule ou vos doigts pour retirer délicatement la mousse qui adhère légèrement au ventilateur.
La mousse doit juste être suffisamment retirée pour que vous puissiez accéder au ventilateur.
La mousse est très délicate et se déchire facilement. Utilisez la technique suivante pour la décoller :
Insérez la pointe d’une spatule sous la partie de la mousse qui n’est pas collée contre quoi que ce soit.
Appuyez sur le dessus de la mousse avec votre doigt pour la maintenir en place.
Roulez la pointe de la spatule sous la mousse jusqu’à l’autre extrémité de la mousse, pour la décoller. Appuyez sur le dessus de la mousse avec votre doigt pour la maintenir en place.

spudger technique is perfect.

Jaxon Lee -

For anyone who doesn’t have a pen-style spudger, the tip of your JIS 000 screwdriver can be a great alternative tool. The same steps above can be used, just be extra careful not to tear that foam. Roll the tip of the screwdriver the same way you would roll the spudger tip.

nin10doh -

Maybe it’s because I’m working on a day one switch and the adhesive is just old and stubborn, but this didn’t work well for me. Am I just completely out of luck, or can I order a replacement for the foam?

Trae Block - 09/03/22

I had the same problem and I found a foam manufacturer: https://www.foam-material.com/sample-cus...

I'm pretty sure the type is "Granular Activated Carbon Foam" and the thickness is 0.5 mm but I have no idea what the porosity is.

Garret Jaworski -

Yeah ripped the foam. Neither the screwdriver nor spudger technique worked. Day one switch, so 6 years old at this point.

Ndragonawa -

Does the foam need replacing if torn? What does it actually do.

Scott Norman -

I wanted to know as well, what does it do? Can I replace it with thermal pads?

Lord Aranorde -

Can I replace the foam with a 0.5mm thermal pad? Will it be a better solution?

Lord Aranorde -

The adhesive remover really helped here being a day one switch

Jeremy Ortner -

Day One Switch, used the spudger technique and 1 teardrop of adhesive remover, no foam ripped here! Technique is mint.

Cassitar -

how do you re-glue the foam when putting this back together?

Elias Cooper -

Étape 24

Utilisez un outil en plastique ou vos doigts pour soulever le dissipateur thermique et le séparer de la carte mère.
Vous pouvez sentir un peu de résistance au moment de séparer le dissipateur. Cela est normal car il est légèrement collé au processeur par la pâte thermique.
Nettoyez tous les résidus de pâte thermique sur le dissipateur thermique ainsi que sur le processeur avec de l'alcool isopropylique (>90 % ou plus) et un chiffon non pelucheux. Avant le remontage, appliquez une nouvelle couche de pâte thermique sur le processeur.
Appliquez une nouvelle couche de pâte thermique sur toutes les surfaces où il y en avait auparavant. Cela inclut la zone entre le caloduc et la plaque en aluminium, qui fait partie du système de refroidissement de la Switch.

What's on the heatsink?

Unknown1224 - 25/08/19

Directions for this step say you can use Artic Silver ArctiClean but when adding to iFixit cart it says “This won’t work with your device (Nintendo Switch).

Dan S. - 03/06/20

where do i get more of that black fabric like tape that is on the heat sink?

Regal Pikachu - 04/06/20

They may sell it in the ifixit store.

Joshua Graham - 03/06/21

(1) Exactly how much thermal paste should be applied to the CPU?

(2) Which application method should be used? The linked instructions list four methods (vertical line, horizontal line, middle dot, or surface spread) but it’s not clear to me which one is appropriate for the Switch. Thanks!

Travis - 18/07/21

UPDATE: So, for anyone who also wanted to know the answers to these questions:

1. I ended up eyeballing the amount. Imagine an amount the size of a pea, then split that amount in half. That’s how much I used, and it worked fine.

2. The paste (I used K5-Pro as recommended) is quite thick and sticky and difficult to get to behave the way you want, so I ended up just doing the “middle dot” method and spreading it a bit with a popsicle stick before smushing it the rest of the way down with the heat sink. Seems to have done the trick.

Good luck!

Travis -

you can also spread it with the spudger or any non-metalic tool if you are not sure how much you put

just clean it afterwards

Richard Aguirre -

K5 (or thermal pads) is ONLY needed between the copper pipe and metal shield plate. It is a pad replacement compound and is not meant for high heat applications like CPUs as it boils and creates air gaps. Air=bad for heat transfer.

Regular thermal compound/paste should be used on the CPU. You’ll have a sticky mess to clean but if you want proper cooling it needs to be done. The instructions clearly state that regular compound is used on the CPU.

Cerus98 -

i used artic silver 5 and worked just fine

Richard Aguirre -

The steps doesnt specify but do you have to remove the heat shield from the cpu as well?

Jeremy Ortner -

I'll be doing this with Thermal Grizzly kryonaut this weekend, wish me luck

Corradon -

good luck with the repairs!

pkjnyoung -

Étape 25

Utilisez un outil en plastique ou votre ongle pour déverrouiller le connecteur ZIF de la nappe de la vitre tactile.

This step broke my switch i can't use my card reader anymore! i tried numerous time the reverse it seems my headphone jack works but my touchscreen and gamecard reader is broken. Even worse one of the screws to attach this plate was mangled so i cant even replace it anymore because the screw wont come out anymore. I reallly hate that i followed this guide others suggested to just keep the gamecard touchscreen ribbon attached and just fold it like a book. I wished i did that. I not gonna bother to even buy an gamecard replacement anymore. Its time to buy an switch oled and be done with this!

Kar Wai Chan -

The advice to "fold it like a book" will not work, as the cable will need to come out of the switch in order to replace the screen. It can not be kept in the slot.

Loris Hofer -

To anyone reading this step: This is not an isolated incident. The loss of functionality of the game reader board, which includes the use of reading cartridges, the touchscreen, and the headphone jack, is an possibility that can happen if you disconnect the board. Unless you are replacing the board itself, do not do this step. As of 1/15/2023, there is no know reason why this happens or no known solution other than buying a new game reader board.

Henry Terrance -

Update: If your Switch has lost the ability to read games and or the headphone jack in addition to touchscreen functionality, please consider reading this thread and its solution: Nintendo Switch Cartridge Reader Not Working After Fan Replacement

Henry Terrance -

it is really hard to see what you need to flip up. look at it from different angles. it's the thinnest little strip of black plastic.

Patrick Laffan -

If you're scared of breaking this piece, you can skip step 18 and 19, and just flip the reader over to the left (after step 20-22). Worked for me, be careful though it might bounce back.

Cato_nm -

Please help I replace the game card read and head phone. Now my switch wont even turn on.

Chase Blackstone -

Étape 26

Utilisez une pincette pour retirer horizontalement la nappe de la vitre tactile hors de son connecteur sur le circuit imprimé du lecteur de carte.
Pendant le remontage, avant d'insérer la nappe, assurez-vous que le clapet de verrouillage du connecteur ZIF est ouvert.
Avec la nappe parallèle à la carte, glissez-la délicatement dans son connecteur.
Ne forcez par la nappe dans le connecteur. Si elle ne s'insère pas, vérifiez que le clapet de verrouillage est bien ouvert, repositionnez la nappe et réessayez.
Si votre écran tactile ne fonctionne pas après la réparation Nintendo Switch, mais le lecteur de carte si, assurez-vous que cette nappe est bien insérée. Si le lecteur de carte ne fonctionne pas non plus, vérifiez plutôt le connecteur de la carte dans l'étape suivante.

The reverse of this is a little tricky - it may be helpful to post some more detail about getting the ribbon all the way back in and ensuring the clasp goes down to troubleshoot some of the touchscreen comments below.

Nick Wagner - 04/01/21

This seems to be purely for the touchscreen to work, if you remove the headphone/card reader the switch will still function fine, however without somewhere for this cable to reattach your touchscreen will be disabled

Ian Wilson -

the reverse of this is tricky. i'd suggest a better tool kit with this that includes real tweezers so i don't have to use my wife's

Patrick Laffan -

Did you get it to work finally?!

Chris Cotter -

Hi Chris! From the thread, it looks like it's not this connector that's the problem, but the press connector in the step below. If your card reader won't read cards, check to make sure this connector is fully aligned and seated.

Arthur Shi -

This connection was a problem for me. I tried the connection many times before it worked. What finally worked was lining up the gold rectangle on the back of the smaller part to overlap/cover the port very carefully. This required me to compress the ribbon a bit. Not much force required to finish the connection.

Tyler Rhodes -

I found it much easier to reinsert the ribbon while the reader board was fully disconnected. This way I was able to simply hold the reader board with my fingers and slide it over the end of the ribbon while the ribbon was just sticking up in the air. The ribbon is quite stiff and slipped in VERY easily in such a way that I felt confident that it was fully seated. Then while holding it in one hand, I flipped the locking flap down with a spudger in the other. You might also be able to seat the board and the ribbon will likely stay inserted under its own tension, then flip the locking flap down.

Brian Edgin -

Étape 27

Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule pour soulever le connecteur du lecteur de carte et de la prise jack et le déconnecter de la carte mère.
Pour réattacher les connecteurs à emboîter comme celui-ci, alignez soigneusement le connecteur sur sa prise et appuyez avec le bout du doigt – d'abord d'un côté, puis de l'autre – jusqu'à ce qu'il s'enclenche.
N'appuyez pas au milieu du connecteur tant qu'il n'est pas complètement en place. S'il est mal aligné, le connecteur risque de se plier et d'être endommagé de façon permanente.
Si l'écran tactile ne fonctionne pas et/ou les cartes de jeu ne sont pas détectées après le remontage, il se peut que vous n'ayez pas reconnecté complètement ce connecteur à emboîter. Déconnectez-le délicatement et reconnectez-le.

Note that if the card reader mentions it won't read cards, this cable has not been reconnected correctly. Watch the connectors are not bent when reattaching

Shaniqua Bowdre -

You need to push the connector upwards. Look at the image and you will see a very slight bend. This bent allows the connector to align with its dock. Very very careful when pressing down IT HAS TO BE ALIGNED.

Juan Visani -

This step had me most stressed during re-assembly. I saw in a video elsewhere where the person reattached the press connector BEFORE screwing it back in which gave them more room to work with. They also pointed out that there's an outline on the top that should line up with where it reconnects. This helped me re-connect with more confidence.

Level 100 Psyduck -

I also reconnected this connector before screwing the reader down. You will not have to contend with the pressure from bending the stiff wide cable leading from the connector.

claudio ocano -

Étape 28

Utilisez un tournevis JIS 000 ou un tournevis cruciforme iFixit PH 000 pour retirer les 3 vis de 3,1 mm qui fixent le lecteur de carte et la prise jack sur le châssis.

Étape 29

Utilisez une pincette ou vos doigts pour retirer le support de la prise jack.

Étape 30

Utilisez une pincette ou vos doigts pour retirer le lecteur de carte et la prise jack de la console.

Étape 31

Utilisez un outil pour ouvrir, une spatule ou votre ongle afin de faire basculer le petit volet de verrouillage articulé sur le connecteur ZIF de la nappe LCD.

I recommend when reinserting the LCD ribbon cable, DO NOT bother with the tweezers.

The sharp end is incredibly hard and the Gold on the Ribbon cable incredibly soft. Even trying to avoid gold-plated end, I still damaged it re-inserting it into place.

I recommend first turning the console around to face you (so you can see how the ribbon slides in), then pressing gently with your finger to try and slide it in.

Yakarot Sennin -

Ifixit should change the guide. I just ruined a perfectly good screen scratching the flex with the tweezer... Cmon, if i only had seen the comment before!

Afonso -

Étape 32

Utilisez une pincette pour tirer la nappe tout droit hors de son connecteur sur la carte mère.

Étape 33

Utilisez un outil pour ouvrir, une spatule ou votre ongle afin de faire basculer le petit volet de verrouillage articulé sur le connecteur ZIF de la nappe du ventilateur.

Étape 34

Utilisez une pincette pour retirer la nappe du ventilateur de son connecteur sur la carte mère.

Étape 35

Utilisez un outil pour ouvrir, une spatule ou votre ongle afin de faire basculer le petit volet de verrouillage articulé sur le connecteur ZIF de la nappe des boutons de marche et de volume.

Étape 36

Utilisez une pincette pour tirer la nappe tout droit hors de son connecteur sur la carte mère.

Étape 37

Utilisez un outil pour ouvrir, une spatule ou votre ongle afin de faire basculer le petit volet de verrouillage articulé sur le connecteur ZIF de la plus petite nappe LCD.

Étape 38

Utilisez une pincette pour tirer la nappe tout droit hors de son connecteur sur la carte mère.

Étape 39

Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule, d'un outil pour ouvrir ou de votre ongle afin de faire basculer le petit volet de verrouillage articulé sur le connecteur ZIF de la nappe de données du rail du Joy Con.

Étape 40

Utilisez une pincette pour tirer la nappe tout droit hors de son connecteur sur la carte mère.

Étape 41

Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule pour soulever le câble d'antenne noir tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

Étape 42

Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule pour soulever le câble d'antenne blanc tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

I broke the connector off of the board what can I do to fix it? Where can I get a part for the board to be able to click the wire back in. The solder points is still the to re solder but where to find the part to fix is a nightmare!!!! PLEASE HELP THANKS IN ADVANCE 🙏

Danny Dean -

Étape 43

Utilisez vos doigts ou une pincette pour retirer le connecteur du haut-parleur droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.
Ne tirez pas sur le connecteur par les fils des haut-parleurs. Ils sont très fins et se détachent facilement du connecteur.

Étape 44

Utilisez vos doigts ou une pincette pour retirer le connecteur du haut-parleur gauche de sa prise sur la carte mère.
Ne tirez pas sur le connecteur par les fils des haut-parleurs. Ils sont très fins et se détachent facilement du connecteur.

Étape 45

Utilisez un outil pour ouvrir, une spatule ou votre ongle pour faire basculer le petit volet de verrouillage articulé sur le connecteur ZIF de la nappe de données du rail du Joy Con.

Étape 46

Utilisez une pincette pour faire glisser la nappe de données du rail du Joy Con tout droit hors de son connecteur sur la carte mère.

Étape 47

Utilisez un tournevis JIS 000 ou un tournevis iFixit PH 000 pour retirer les vis suivantes :
Quatre vis de 2,5 mm
Deux vis de 3,1 mm

Étape 48

Insérez une spatule dans un espace entre la carte mère et le châssis.
Soulevez délicatement la carte mère et retirez-la du châssis.

My motherboard was getting caught on the fan, I found it much easier to remove the fan first, then the motherboard.

I'd suggest steps 40/41 and 42/43 should be reversed

Kitsune -

mine too, its almost impossible to remove the board without breaking it so long as the small lip on the fan is there, possibly a difference in production models?

Golden Glory -

Étape 49

Si vous ne remplacez que le haut-parleur gauche, ignorez les deux étapes suivantes.
Utilisez vos doigts ou une pincette pour tirer le connecteur du haut-parleur tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.
Ne tirez pas sur le connecteur par les fils des haut-parleurs. Ils sont très fins et peuvent facilement se détacher du connecteur.

Étape 50

Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule pour soulever le haut-parleur.
Le haut-parleur est collé avec un adhésif léger à l'intérieur du compartiment du haut-parleur, donc un peu de force est nécessaire.
Utilisez vos doigts ou une pincette pour retirer le haut-parleur droit.

Étape 51

Suivez les trois étapes suivantes si vous remplacez le haut-parleur gauche.
Utilisez vos doigts ou une pincette pour retirer le connecteur du haut-parleur de sa prise sur la carte mère.
Ne tirez pas sur le connecteur par les fils des haut-parleurs. Ils sont très fins et peuvent facilement se détacher du connecteur.

Étape 52

Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule pour soulever le haut-parleur.
Le haut-parleur est collé avec un adhésif léger à l'intérieur du compartiment du haut-parleur, donc un peu de force est nécessaire.

Étape 53

Utilisez vos doigts ou une pincette pour retirer délicatement le haut-parleur de son compartiment.

Étape 54

Utilisez un tournevis JIS 000 ou un tournevis cruciforme officiel iFixit PH 000 pour retirer les trois vis de 4,8 mm qui fixent le ventilateur.

Étape 55

Utilisez une pincette ou vos doigts pour soulever le ventilateur vers le haut et le retirer de l'appareil.
Comparez votre nouvelle pièce de rechange à la pièce d'origine. Vous devrez peut-être transférer les composants restants (tels que les dispositifs en caoutchouc) sur la nouvelle pièce avant l'installation.

Étape 56

Utilisez un tournevis JIS 000 ou un tournevis cruciforme officiel iFixit PH 000 pour retirer les quatre vis de 3,7 mm qui fixent le rail du Joy Con droit au châssis de l'appareil.
Ces vis sont serrées et peuvent être difficiles à retirer. Pour les empêcher de les abîmer, appliquez une force ferme vers le bas, travaillez lentement et essayez un autre tournevis si le les vis ne sortent pas.

Étape 57

Retirez le rail du Joy Con droit.
Veillez à ce que la nappe de données du rail ne reste pas accrochée au châssis de l'appareil lorsque vous la retirez.

Étape 58

Utilisez vos doigts ou une pincette pour soulever le connecteur de la batterie et dégager la nappe de données du rail du Joy Con.

Étape 59

Utilisez vos doigts ou une pincette pour soulever le connecteur de la batterie et dégager la nappe de données du rail du Joy Con.

There's a bit of adhesive holding the rail's cable stuck to the mid-frame that had me confused. Seems to just need a little peeling to get it off.

Andrew Bolton -

Étape 60

Utilisez un tournevis JIS 000 ou un tournevis officiel cruciforme PH 000 pour retirer les quatre vis de 3,7 mm qui fixent le rail du Joy Con gauche au châssis de l'appareil.
Ces vis sont serrées et peuvent être difficiles à retirer. Pour empêcher de les abîmer, appliquez une force ferme vers le bas, travaillez lentement et essayez un autre tournevis si les vis ne sortent pas.

Étape 61

Retirez le rail du Joy Con gauche de l'appareil.

Étape 62

Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule pour décoller la nappe de marche/volume.

Where is the step stating to remove the battery?

Lynn -

Hi Lynn,

There is no instruction for removing the battery in this procedure because it's not necessary. Due to the way guides are combined into a single sequence, occasionally a step may be repeated or a picture may show parts in place or absent that aren't related to the particular job being done, which is what happened in this case.

The photo was taken during a midframe replacement procedure; if you were replacing the midframe you'd need to remove the battery, but for just the front frame the battery can stay in place, especially since battery removal is rather difficult on these devices.

Jerry Wheeler -

Étape 63

Retirez la carte de marche/volume à l'aide d'une pincette arrondie.

Étape 64

Retirez l'insert conducteur en caoutchouc avec une pincette arrondie.

Étape 65

Tirez sur les boutons de marche et de volume avec une pincette arrondie.

Étape 66

Décrochez le câble coaxial noir du châssis central.

Where did the board go, I swear the steps used to be here

Nicolas Merrick -

Étape 67

Continuez à suivre le câble, en le décrochant au fur et à mesure.

Étape 68

Soulevez le dispositif métallique entourant le câble coaxial pour l'enlever du châssis central.

Étape 69

Saisissez la carte de l'antenne WiFi avec une pincette et soulevez-la vers le haut pour la retirer.

Étape 70

Chauffez un iOpener et appliquez-le sur le bord inférieur de l'écran pendant environ deux minutes, pour aider à ramollir l'adhésif.
Un sèche-cheveux, un pistolet thermique ou une plaque chauffante peuvent également être utilisés, mais veillez à ne pas surchauffer l'appareil - l'écran et la batterie interne sont tous deux susceptibles d'être endommagés par la chaleur.

Étape 71

Appliquez une ventouse dans le coin inférieur gauche de l'écran.
Tirez sur la ventouse fortement et de manière constante, pour créer un espace.
Selon l'âge de votre appareil, cela peut être difficile. Si vous avez des problèmes, appliquez plus de chaleur et réessayez.
Insérez la pointe d'un médiateur dans l'espace, en veillant à n'insérer le médiateur que sur environ 5 mm.

Étape 72

Faites glisser le médiateur le long du bord inférieur de l'écran pour trancher l'adhésif.
Laissez le médiateur inséré pour éviter que l'adhésif ne recolle au châssis.

Étape 73

Insérez un second médiateur dans l'espace à gauche du premier médiateur.
Faites glisser le médiateur vers le côté gauche de l'appareil.
Laissez le médiateur inséré.

Étape 74

Chauffez le bord gauche de l'écran pendant environ deux minutes pour aider à ramollir l'adhésif.

Étape 75

Continuez à faire glisser le médiateur autour du coin inférieur gauche, pour trancher l'adhésif.

Étape 76

Continuez à faire glisser le médiateur le long du bord gauche de l'écran, pour trancher jusqu'à l'adhésif.

Étape 77

Chauffez le bord supérieur de l'écran pendant environ deux minutes pour ramollir l'adhésif.

Étape 78

Continuez à faire glisser le médiateur autour du coin supérieur gauche de l'écran, pour trancher l'adhésif.

Étape 79

Continuez à faire glisser le médiateur le long du bord supérieur de l'écran, pour trancher l'adhésif.

Étape 80

Chauffez le bord droit de l'écran pendant environ deux minutes pour aider à ramollir l'adhésif.
Placez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule dans l'espace le long du bord gauche de l'écran.
Soulevez délicatement et lentement le bord gauche de l'écran, en l'ouvrant comme un livre.

Étape 81

Soulevez le bord droit de l'écran à la verticale hors de l'appareil, en faisant passer les nappes à travers le châssis en même temps.
Veillez à ce que les nappes ne restent pas accrochés au châssis lorsque vous retirez l'écran.
Vous pouvez réutiliser l'adhésif pour écran s'il est encore collant. Sinon, remplacez l'adhésif par de l'adhésif double-face tel que du ruban Tesa.

As well as the screen adhesive, you also need the double sided dust seal to go around the LCD / Digitizer. This seals the digitizer to the LCD screen.

This is separate to the double sided tape that glues the digitizer to the frame.

Mustafa Salim -

Étape 82

Retirez les quatre vis qui fixent le châssis frontal au châssis central.

which screws are these? type/length?

Stijn -

Étape 83

Soulevez le bord avant du châssis, puis faites-le glisser vers le haut de l'écran, pour le retirer.

There is a little clear bit of plastic that can fall out, make sure you put it back in the front frame before reassembly.

Nathaniel King -

Where can I get a replacement of this little thing ? I lost it 😭

Jayke Walker -

Do the screws that attach rails screw into the front frame, mid-frame, or both? My son dropped his Switch and one of the rails came off. I replaced both rails but the screw holes on the broken side are damaged and the screws will not grab anything. I’m not sure if I need to replace front frame or mid-frame, or both.

Bmd -

The screws go into the midframe only; you won't need to do anything with the front frame except remove it to replace the midframe. When ordering a midframe, I'd suggest finding one that has the pad already installed on the LCD side; I had no luck finding that pad separately when I wrote the guide.

Jerry Wheeler -

If you're replacing the front shell, make sure you are also replacing the speaker dust covers. These did not come as standard with my ExtremeRate shell, so I had to buy separately.

Mustafa Salim -

Étape 84

Vérifiez que le câble coaxial est libre de toute obstruction ou acheminement à l'intérieur de l'appareil.

Étape 85

L'antenne est fixée avec un adhésif léger, il suffit donc de la saisir et de la tirer vers le haut pour la détacher.

Étape 86

Tirez le câble coaxial à travers la fente du châssis.
Les antennes de remplacement peuvent ne pas être livrées avec la pièce de support en plastique noir, vous devrez donc peut-être la transférer de l'ancienne antenne vers la nouvelle.

Étape 87

Le châssis central a maintenant été mis à nu.
De nombreux nouveaux châssis intermédiaires ne sont pas livrés avec la couche d'isolation noire entre le châssis central et l'écran, vous devrez donc peut-être trouver un substitut ou essayer de récupérer la couche de votre ancien châssis central.

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

Auteur

Jerry Wheeler

Membre depuis le 21/03/22

67129 Réputation

7 commentaires

Great guide will be attempting this soon so this guide has given me some hope! I can’t seem to find the black insulation layer on the last step would that be a generic insulating foam or something else?

Cameron Ness -

Thanks, it should work, as I actually followed my own instructions the entire way through the replacement, although I had to add three other guides for completeness; the two antenna guides and the front frame guide.

I’m afraid I sidestepped the issue of the black insulation; I opted to buy a used frame that clearly showed the insulation still in place once I realized all of the new ones came without it. If you do come up with a solution for a replacement, we’d love to hear about it; I personally can’t think of a suitable substitute offhand.

Oh, one note on this guide; it’s put together using existing guides for the individual part removals, and as such it duplicates the instructions for removing some of the connectors such as the speakers and the display. So don’t worry if the instructions tell you to unplug a connector you’ve already unplugged; that’s just an artifact of combining separate guides. For example, both the motherboard and LCD replacement instructions tell you to unplug the LCD and digitizer cables

Jerry Wheeler -

Thanks for the reply,

I was planning on doing this repair as a switch I have purchased has cracked plastic at the bottom of the casing where the fan vents are but I’m weighing up the pros and cons of stripping it down purely for that reason.

I can’t find a housing with that thermal pad anywhere which puts me off buying the ones that claim to be OEM if they don’t come with it by default.

I found some closed cell Polyethylene insulating foam sheets that are about 2mm thick so I’m assuming that’s similar on eBay so might give that a try and see how it compares to the original.

Cameron Ness -

I poked around but had no luck finding anywhere the pad is sold separately; however I did come across a midframe being sold on Amazon with the pad (OEM pulls, removed from Switches). I’ve included a link in the parts list. The really good news is, it’s only about $11 US! Dang, wish I’d seen this when I was doing my replacement!

Jerry Wheeler - 28/03/22

Hey Cameron, just re-reading your latest comment and I have to wonder if you really need to do a full midframe replacement. If its just cracked plastic, that should mean just doing a front frame replacement instead of a full midframe. Still a lot to do; the main differences are that you don't have to remove the battery and speakers which would be good as the battery is pretty hard to pull.

Jerry Wheeler -

Very comprehensive guide!
I have an issue where the screws holding the joycon rail have had their heads break off which lead to the the rail and the ribbon cable pulling out and breaking.
Since I cannot remove the screw shafts from the midframe i figure I need to replace it along with a new rail.

If you have any advice on removing the screw shaft I'd gladly take it because replacing the mid-frame seems like a lot of work.
Again, the screw heads broke off of every screw that held the rail on.

Thanks for this guide!

Joshua Grandt -

Hi Joshua,

From many decades of working on cars, the normal procedure for removing screws when the heads have broken off is to either drill them out then clean the threads with a tap, or use a screw extractor, which generally means drilling a smaller hole down the center of the bolt that the extractor can fit into.

Unfortunately, neither one of those is a good option when you're working with screws as tiny as the ones we're talking about. And drilling is problematic there anyway, as the bolts are made of far harder metal than the pot metal midframe, so if you're off center even a little you're going to damage the hole the screw is mounted in.

Really, about the only suggestion I have would be to disassemble the Switch far enough that you have fairly clear access to the screws, then use some precision pliers to try and get hold of the shaft and turn it out by hand. Otherwise, you could try using a fine Dremel disk to cut a straight slot in the shaft so you can get on it with a straight slot screwdriver.

Jerry Wheeler -