Dérivation du sélecteur d'enceinte G/D Mackie CR3 CR4

Rédigé par : Davina Krug
  • Commentaires : 43
Dérivation du sélecteur d'enceinte G/D Mackie CR3 CR4

Difficulté

Difficile

Étapes

3

Temps nécessaire

20 minutes

Introduction

Ces enceintes fournissent un son vraiment bon pour leurs prix, mais il semble que ce soit dû à l'utilisation de composants bon marché.

C'est un problème connu que le commutateur de sélection de l'enceinte à alimenter s'abime souvent, avec pour résultat une absence de son émis par l'une ou les deux enceintes. Vous devriez d'abord essayer d'utiliser un nettoyant de contact, mais cela peut s'avérer n'être qu'une solution temporaire.

Cette réparation rendra le choix de l'enceinte à alimenter définitif mais, hormis la prise Aux In située à l'avant, il est aussi facile de brancher vos câbles audio à l'arrière pour que le son vienne de l'enceinte désirée si vous avez besoin de changer votre installation plus tard.

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    • Éteignez votre enceinte alimentée, débranchez-la et dévissez les 10 vis à tête cruciforme qui bordent la plaque à l'arrière.

    • Une fois enlevés, remuez un peu la plaque et vous pourrez extraire l'électronique du boitier assez facilement. Faites attention car il y a du câblage reliant le haut-parleur à l'avant, mais il y a assez de mou pour ne pas avoir à les débrancher pour cette réparation.

    10 screws were present on my CR3 instead of 8. Worth noting the panel is only secured by the ones on the edges, and it took a hard tug on the cable to get it to come off.

    Jared Pittman -

    Have these same speakers, same L/R select issue (Yes the Contact cleaner worked short term only). Great to find a solution! Thank you DAVID KRUG; will get back and reply with how the 'fix' went.

    Kevin Patrick Goulet -

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    • Faites en sorte de tout disposer pour avoir un accès facile à l'arrière du circuit imprimé et le panneau arrière sur votre droite.

    • Les points de contacts sur lesquels nous allons devoir travailler sont les 4 broches du bas dans le groupe de 6 broches situées directement à gauche du commutateur, à l'arrière du circuit imprimé.

    • Pour le haut-parleur situé à DROITE, connectez les connexions supérieures et inférieures de ce groupe de 4. Deux lignes parallèles. ||

    • Pour le haut-parleur situé à GAUCHE, croisez les connexions supérieures et inférieures de ce groupe de 4. Deux lignes se croisent. X

    I had luck spraying the switch (on the PCB, and on the backplate sides) with air, then with Deoxit. I also moved the switch Up/Down about 10 times while it had the Deoxit on it. The same repair has fixed cheap pots in my guitar before, and seemed to do the job on this L/R switch.

    Bamma W -

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    • Soudez deux petits fils isolés pour relier les connexions afin de câbler votre enceinte à droite ou à gauche, à votre guise. Le résultat final devrait ressembler à la photo (choix de l'enceinte amplifiée de droite), mais en plus propre et sans ruban adhésif de protection ajouté à la hâte, car vous êtes meilleur soudeur que moi.

    • Veillez à ce que les fils soient bien à plat sur la carte mère afin que vous ne soyez pas gêné lorsque vous la replacerez dans le boîtier de l'enceinte.

    • Méthode optionnelle : Comme l'ont noté quelques utilisateurs, placer le fil nu d'un fil isolé sur les broches et les souder fonctionne AUSSI. Cette méthode prends moins de place, mais elle ne fonctionne que lorsque le haut-parleur est placé dans le bon sens, puisqu'il s'agit de lignes parallèles.

    Do you need to remove the switch before solder the wires, or you just did the solder work?

    Thank you

    Jose -

    I just performed this repair and you don’t need to remove the switch, but you need to make sure you don’t toggle the switch after soldering. In my case the switch snapped off so I can’t move it even if I wanted to.

    Sean Lee -

    Yeah, no need to remove the switch. When I first looked into repairing the speaker, I considered swapping out the switch for a new one, but it does not appear to be easy to remove without risking further damage.

    Davina Krug -

    I just performed the repair and didn't remove the switch. I also toggled the switch back and forth after putting everything back together, and it still works fine - the selector switch now does nothing, but it didn't seem to do anything harmful.

    Easy repair, although it might not be clear from the pictures exactly how small of a space you need to work in - hardest part of this repair was manipulating two tiny jumper wires to connect to the right points, without crossing wires or flowing too much solder onto the joints.

    Kevin Fleischman -

    If we could identify the switch, it could be replaced instead of bypassed.

    ehanneken -

    Just did this (my first time soldering too). I couldn't manage to solder a cable because of how small the nodes were, but I created a bridge (i.e. just soldered a line of iron between them) between the nodes labeled in this guide as the "powered speaker right" and it is working fine.

    Maxime Fournier -

    Just performed this repair on my CR3s. Saved me from throwing away perfectly good speakers due to the bad switch. Thank you!

    eklinc -

    Very usefull guide. They even appear to go louder .

    justin.stefan -

    Perfect user manuel! I already had this idea. I only didn’t no which connections I had to connect to each other. I used a string from an old telephone cable. That is a lot easier to use in the small space. A string from a UTP cable should also work I think.

    Robbert Landegent -

    Very small space and tiny wires. If you have t done this before just be patient. You will get there. I have never soldered before and my near sight vision isn’t good.

    Thanks for all the previous comments, I so don’t want to unsolder the switch and got them working without out removing it.

    I did have to pull a couple connectors to get easier access while soldering.

    Michael H. -

    If you select the left speaker method, does that mean the right speaker is then permanently muted and vice versa for the right speaker? I need to rapidly move the switch until both speakers work. I just want them to both work permanently. Thank you for your help. I am more than happy to do a guide myself on these speakers so it will easily help people better In the future =)

    Charity Peter -

    This fix bypasses the switch, as that is the failure point. So afterwards both speakers will work. But as you are soldering down the bypass, you are making a somewhat permanent decision on which is the left or right speaker.

    Davina Krug -

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, effectuez ces étapes dans l'ordre inverse.

Auteur

Davina Krug

Membre depuis le 01/01/20

659 Réputation

28 commentaires

You have saved my bacon in spending extraneous money on something so simple to fix. Thank you so much!!!

Quentin Little -

Just wanted to say thank you for creating this. I did my fix slightly different than how you outlined yours by just bridging the solder points in the parallel "right" configuration with bare stranded wire. A bit neater than doing it with larger loops of insulated wire....possibly a little more unsafe? but the strands aren't touching the circuit board that is insulated anyway so im fairly confident its fine. Speakers work great now

Mario Marin -

Thanks for the tip! I did this. It was way easier and seems to be working well. I would never have managed with loops of insulated wire. We are talking about just a few millimeters between each of those contact points!

Track Smart -

To add on to what Track Smart said, I also just bridged the solder points with stranded wire and it worked!

Nabeel Hussain -

Tight space to work on but worked perfectly. Thanks David

Mark Micallef -

Thanks for thisI Thoug I have to start over. Indeed a tight space to work with and i've been soldering since I was 14 (50 now). A magnifying glass light would be handy. Also, for me I had to really pull on the back as it was tough to pull out after I took out all screws, without really having something to grip on to.

bketchen -

I initially cocked it up and there was only sound but staticy and very low volume in which speaker was selected. So I think I got the polarities crossed. So I did it again. The left speaker is restored like it was, so i'm back to 0 (not negative results). So I believe, as per another youtube that we need to remove the switch which is the problematic issue. Apparently relatively easy to do and hopefully I can heat up the backside of the circuit board and removing the switch entirely without disrupting my jumper connections if you are following me.

Another wonder is, can we replace the faulty DPDT switch with a proper one? I have tons of them including small ones that the toggle will probably fit the initial hole. Just a thought, could be a crap shoot. But clearly, for me, the switch still in place creates the issue of sound in only one speaker.

cheers. Brad

bketchen -

I just picked a CR3 set up at the thrift store for $5 and the switch is missing, i put bare wire where the switch was and i can get both speakers working, so i know they both work, thanks for posting this, i'll give this a try

Adam -

I have multiple Mackie CR sets and they all exhibit the same problem, this is a great solution and really not that hard to solder. Thank you David and others!

Emile -

This article saved my sanity with a faulty switch. After soldering with insulated wires as you shared, I made a point to secure everything with hot-glue. Thank you so very much!

Vineet Gupta -

Same old Mackie crap. They've been using cheap pots and switches on their products for years. I've purchased several hundred of their mixers over the years for post production, and the pots and switches invariably go bad with little age. Pretty disappointing.

cameronproaudio -

✅ Repaired!!! ✅ I just did solder bridges instead of wires, but I wouldn't recommend it. Ideally it would be easier to remove the switch, but it's just so hard to work in there....

alphaethree -

Thanks, this works very nicely! Also I want to setup a 4 speaker setup with these monitors, I have tried just hooking the 3 passive ones to the powered speaker, but the problem is that one of the speakers is on the wrong channel, It is on the passive speaker left channel but I want to connect it so It's on the powered speakers channel on the right. I looked inside the powered speaker but there are 2 sets of wires - 2 going to the subwoofer and 2 going to the tweeter and I can't figure out where I could be able to connect them. Do you have any Ideas how to make this work?

Atdsu -

An absolute life saver. Thank you David for taking the time to post this article. Good man. My Mackie's are now back to life. I do still really like the sound of these CR3's on my desktop, despite Mackie's cheap component choices.

Al Cain -

Was about to toss mine after a new 3.5mm : RCA cable did not fix the problem, came across this guide ('not working' pre-appending to a search for 'cr3 speakers' clued me in to this being a common issue) and gave this a try. Success! I did it in about 10 minutes with a 15W iron and a hacky hacky solder bridge. Will use actual wire if that fails. Mercifully I don't tend to run these very loud so hopefully the other janky components hang in there.

Some Eric Guy -

What kind of wire should one use for something like this? Any tips for soldering the wire to the board?

gamesthatexist -

Thank you so much, this was bugging so much me for a year, mine were even broken to the point that none of the speakers would play sound. I'd like to add to pull out the electronics it is easiest to hold the speaker case with one hand an then pull out the board in the back by grabbing it inside the ventilation shaft (took me some time to realize this). Also I never soldered anything in my life before and just bought a soldering iron in hopes of being able to fix my speakers. After some texting with a friend who is very experienced, I decided go for 305°C and instead of using cables I'd bridge it directly. Practiced two or three times with an old broken HDD I had around and then went for the real deal. Because I was so nervous first I accidentally soldered the wrong parts but was able to remove it with a soldering pump. First try everything worked out and it's fixed, so I would rank this as medium difficulty for a total beginner.

mincedirl -

Stavo da ore a cercare di capire, poi cerco su internet e trovo la tua guida. Grazie mille

DAVINCI Official -

Thank you! I had this problem for some time and got worried thinking that their time was coming, but it was as simple as soldering 2 wires and voila! Thank you thank you thank you!

Daniel Ponte Miserendino -

Grateful to be able to fix my CR4s!

Note that on the CR4s there are 10 screws to remove (rather than 8).

I used a very short length of uninsulated solid copper wire to bridge terminals. Pre-tinning and a tiny dab of flux paste helped immensely.

Somewhat tedious with the very tight clearances. Fine-tipped soldering iron and forceps/tweezers recommended!

wryfi -

I googled a poor description of my problem without even mentioning the brand and this was one of the top results. Once again, Ifixit saved my electronics. Thanks!!!

Colton Bucholz -

It worked for me even though i thought it will not because of the bad solder i made, and the risk of pins being soldered between them. My soldering iron driver was too big. But now i can use my speakers again, and save money ! thank you very much

Guillaume -

THANKS! REPAIRED <3 I made it with bare wire and although I'm not a very good solder it worked :)

buenonoesta -

Thank you so much for this guide (and all commenters as well). First of all, I never soldered before. Ever. So I screwed up the first time when trying to create a bridge. That failed spectacularly. Then I went with the cable way and it worked.

Petr Blaha -

I chose the easier option of soldering these in parallel. I used a tiny bit of twist tie (once I stripped off the cover). This stiffer wire was super easy to work with and works like a charm. Loving these speakers now!

Oh and Harbor Frieght sells a small soldering iron for $6

jerry drake -

Thank you for helping me solve this UBER FRUSTRATING issue with Mackie CR3's. SO satisfying to have my speakers back and sounding so good thanks to this tutorial. Cheers!

Christopher Zibach -

Muchas Gracias los tenía hace años con ese error, hasta ayer me atreví a meterle la mano, falle muchas veces, pero al final lo logre.
Nota : tuve que mover el interruptor de L Y R para lograr que funcionara.

Ian B. -