Remplacement de la carte mère du Samsung Galaxy Note9

If using an iOpener it will need to be fully heated and set on for at least 5 minutes. You’ll know the phone is hot enough when its almost too hot to touch.

Just came here to say exactly that. The instructions should be amended to state that: "Get it fully hot and leave it there for at least three minutes solid."

It takes so much heat that it is concerning that damage might be caused to the internal parts. It is difficult to heat the glue, pull the case apart and insert the pick at same time. May need some more pointers to handle these situations first, to prevent possible damage. Also what about the glue that is heated and then cooled before opening? Does it run inside and cause greater adhesion after it cools? Another thing, the handling may cause the phone to turn back on while working to separate. Don't know that that is of concern.

Angle the pick up very slightly so the point goes up into the curve of the glass, not down towards the workings of the phone

It's extremely easy to crack the back glass when nearing and rounding the corners. It's probably a good idea to soften the adhesive with heat as you go.

Step 5 is NOT "cut through the adhesive", that's steps 5-10. Step 5 is "Begin the careful process of cutting through the adhesive, starting at the right side where you already softened it. Proceed carefully, slowly, and warmly through the following steps."

These comments are spot-on. I never break a phone, and I cracked the back glass following the instructions without seeing these comments first. Heat the back much more than you think you need and go super, super slow.

There seems to be a lot of glue at the bottom, I broke the glass as I was cutting past the charging port - not sure if it was already fractured or just not enough heat (I used Sellotape so it didn't break up into pieces!)

I think LOTS of heat & patience is the key!

Be very careful around the corners and bottom (probably top too, but I didn't have a problem there). Make sure you've cut in far enough down the side first (go in about 1cm) but less round the corners and work in slowly.

If using an iOpener it will need to be fully heated and set on for at least 5 minutes. You’ll know the phone is hot enough when its almost too hot to touch.

Aside from the left edge where the fingerprint sensor cable is, you may have to insert the pick up to 2cm on the sides and top, and a little further along the bottom, and swipe sideways to separate the inner adhesive areas. If one side doesn't separate fully, just apply heat, insert the pick deeper into the phone, and swipe sideways until the back cover detaches. There isn't a need to apply much vertical force, especially on the corners, since the cover will just pop up once all the adhesive has been sliced by the pick.

Be VERY patient as you slide the opening picks around the periphery of the glass, and use heat very liberally. Make sure the smooth, clear aspect of the iOpener is against the glass, not the rough black portion.

Happened to me as well.

On my phone the fingerprint sensor did not come off with the back cover but stayed on the phone!

I am installing a new backplate (this is my first repair; I was CERTAIN that I would crack the back glass, and I was NOT wrong) but I’m not sure how tweezers are meant to remove gooey adhesive! I simply used the blue plastic pry tool as a scraper and gently rolled up the goo. Maybe the glue is different because I have a refurbished phone? That may also explain why I had so much trouble with Step 1. Hope that this helps!

Use tweezers remove any inner adhesive strips that may have started peeling off when the back cover is removed, or adhesive clumps. If an adhesive starts to peel off, use tweezers to pull the strip off completely, and then replace only that removed adhesive strip. Actually, the iFixIt inner adhesive strips don't seem to have the white non-stick areas that are on the original adhesive strips. Thus, it seems ok to keep the original inner adhesive strips if still attached to the phone.

The outer adhesive border is like a good, not a strip, and should be replaced. Using isopropyl alcohol to rub off only the edge adhesive on the phone and back cover works well.

After adding a new outer adhesive and reattaching the back cover, you have one try to align and replace the cover. The cover might not attach flush onto the phone with no side gaps, due to the outer adhesive strip placement. It is probably sufficient if the outer adhesive seals all the way around the back cover border.

While testing the phone after battery replacement, but before reattaching the back cover, if a thermal warning (triangular thermometer icon) appears during charging that prevents charging over 50%, remove the charging cable and use a lightly warmed iOpener or heat gun on the battery to warm it slightly. Once the battery is warmed up a little, reattach the charging cable, and the error should go away. Battery charging can be resumed. This assumes no hardware was damaged during battery replacement.

There are two more screws on the bottom right corner of the little side frame that the Qi plate is glued to. I took those out as it put less stress on it.

It helps to hold the fine tweezers with your non-dominant hand to support the screw heads and ensure they come straight out; you can also gently lift as you unscrew.

Be careful not to tear it as it comes off - especially the side bits that stick out a bit

You can actually leave the right side of the coil attached to the phone so that it is easier to align and reattach afterward.

These screws are supposed to be 3.2 mm because when I took out these screws, they were shorter than the ones you take out first