Changer la batterie du Google Pixel 4a

Rédigé par : Sam Omiotek

Commentaires : 135

Difficulté

Modérée

Étapes

Temps nécessaire

1 - 2 heures

Introduction

Suivez ce tutoriel pour changer votre batterie Google Pixel 4a.

Pour votre protection, déchargez votre batterie Pixel 4a en dessous de 25 % avant de démonter votre téléphone.

Cela réduit le risque de déclencher un événement thermique dangereux si la batterie Pixel 4a est accidentellement endommagée pendant la réparation. Si votre batterie est gonflée, prenez les précautions appropriées.

Le panneau d’écran de votre Google Pixel 4a est fragile. Faites attention aux avertissements dans la procédure d’ouverture si vous réutilisez l’écran.

Outils

Pièces

Étape 1

Insérez un outil ou embout éjecteur de carte SIM, ou bien un trombone redressé, dans l’orifice du tiroir SIM.
Appuyez directement dans le trou pour éjecter le tiroir de carte SIM.
Retirez le tiroir de carte SIM.

I'm using Pixel 4a but my Sim side is not working

Boakye John Owusu -

The pliers (came with the kit) end worked for this step

Gabriel Basilio Brito -

Étape 2

Vous aurez besoin de remonter l'écran vers le haut pour le retirer du reste du téléphone. Suivez les informations suivantes attentivement avant de commencer.
Distinguez bien les deux jointures sur le bord du téléphone :
Jointure de l'écran : cette jointure sépare l'écran du reste du téléphone. C'est là qu'il faudra faire levier.
Jointure du châssis : c'est là que se rejoignent le châssis en plastique et la coque arrière du téléphone. Ne vous appuyez pas sur cette jointure pour faire levier.
Avant de démarrer, remarquez les zones suivantes sur l'écran :
Nappe de l'écran : n'introduisez pas le médiator plus loin qu'indiqué, vous risqueriez d'endommager cette nappe.
Prenez note de la nappe orange sous le coin inférieur droit de l'écran, qui est susceptible de s'abîmer si votre médiator appuie dessus. Insérez votre outil aussi peu que nécessaire pour décoller l'adhésif de l'écran.
Périmètre adhésif : faire levier au-delà de ce périmètre étroit sans incliner le médiator endommagera le panneau OLED.

Coll down guys and gals.

1) go below the Display and not between the backcover/middle (see the other comments)

2) just take care about the flex/display cable position (which is iirc about on the middle i.e. 2nd 3rd from the bottom ON THE LEFT side dear OP)

Everything else is just separting the glued on Display from the Phone.

See the other comments

Aleksandar Dejanovic -

Cool down guys and gals.

1) go below the Display and not between the backcover/middle (see the other comments)

2) just take care about the flex/display cable position (which is iirc about on the middle i.e. 2nd 3rd from the bottom ON THE LEFT side dear OP)

Everything else is just separting the glued on Display from the Phone.

See the other comments

Aleksandar Dejanovic -

I've measured it: The cable starts arround 1.4-1.6 cm from the lower half from the bottom on the left side.

So You can cut the bottom left corner and of course the upper left one but for safety's sake, watch out for the camera.

You can go up to 5cm down from the upper left side till You're near the cable.

Aleksandar Dejanovic -

When you say left side, is this your left when the phone screen is facing you?

jaunie -

The third image her shows the back of the screen, not the body of the phone

blueslondon -

Étape 3

Appliquez un iOpener chaud sur le côté droit du téléphone pendant une minute pour ramollir l'adhésif.
Un sèche-cheveux, un pistolet à air chaud ou une plaque chauffante peuvent faire l'affaire, mais faites attention à ne pas surchauffer le téléphone : l'écran et la batterie interne sont tous les deux sensibles à la chaleur et peuvent être endommagés.

I did the boiling water method. 3 min in water worked fine. I applied to right side and left side for 90 seconds

Gabriel Basilio Brito - 25/10/24

Étape 4

Si votre écran est méchamment fissuré, couvrez-le avec du scotch transparent pour que la ventouse adhère mieux. Du gros scotch peut être utilisé comme alternative à la ventouse. En dernier recours, vous pouvez coller la ventouse à l'écran cassé avec de la super glue.
Positionnez la ventouse aussi près que possible du bord droit de l'écran.
Soulevez la ventouse de manière ferme et constante.
Insérez la pointe d'un médiator dans la jointure de l'écran sur moins d'un millimètre.

It's pretty easy. Insert it just below the screen between the Display and the Display “holder” or mold.

Aleksandar Dejanovic -

I highly recommend not using the mediator that is too thick and too rigid, as the screen is super fragile. Instead, I used a piece of X-ray film. It's thinner, more flexible, and sharper, making it easier to cut through the adhesive along the screen.

Virak Nou - 28/06/24

You definitely DO NOT want to insert the opening pick any further than 1mm. Measure 1mm on the pick and mark it. Put some sort of clamp if you have to to prevent going any deeper than that 1mm.

Kevin -

Étape 5

Cette étape montre comment insérer le médiator sans abîmer le panneau OLED. Faites cela avant de commencer à découper l'adhésif.
Avec votre médiator enfoncé d'un millimètre dans le trou, faites-le pivoter vers le haut pour former un angle raide.
Lorsque l'angle est raide, poussez doucement le médiator dans la fente d'environ 6 mm (1/4 pouce). Le médiator devrait se glisser sous le panneau OLED.
Arrêtez si vous sentez la pointe du médiator buter sur un obstacle. Le médiator pourrait appuyer sur le bord du panneau OLED. Rehaussez le médiator et réessayez.

This took me a while, I ended up sharpening the tip of the pick with a razor so I could push it through the seam and slicing a few times, heat->sharpen-> slice until I finally got it to move, and once it slid under carefully heated up areas and sliced with ~2mm of the pick.

Alan Carlson - 06/03/21

Thanks for this tip, I also shaved down my initial pick and that (plus several rounds of reheating and re-trying) eventually got me there!

Toby MacNutt -

This sounds also harder than it is. Push it in 1mm and just lift the other end in a wider angle like 70° degree from the horinzontal position. There “shouldn't” be much you can do wrong. Because except for the Data cable (flex) at a certain position, I can't remeber anything important but isolating tapes that I have scratched.

It's just the Screen glued to the mold. That's it.

Aleksandar Dejanovic -

Oh, and I wonder here where do You all get such thins plectrums? I have also the flat plastic version and the thin plastic cards but none of them were thin enough for this!!

I ended up using the backside i.e. the dull side of a Razorblade. I didn't saw any alternatives to this. Did You hear this OP?

Any!!

Aleksandar Dejanovic -

the display flex is directly on the bottom of the phone. BE VERY CAREFUL when going around the bottom to not hit the display flex!!!

FixItAgain - 12/02/24

Be very, VERY careful when inserting the pick or whatever you're using. That OLED panel is super fragile. When I was replacing the battery, I damaged my screen and had to replace it, as well. The new screen worked, thankfully. I tried to be very careful but somehow still damaged the screen. I couldn't detect any damage to the screen except there was a very small fleck of the iridescent material. That's the only thing I could tell.

FYI: The phone would boot up into SOME kind of mode. I could feel it vibrate when I held down the power button or used the fingerprint sensor. If you're in that position, it's a good chance a new screen will get your phone up and running. At least, that was the case for me.

Kevin -

Étape 6

Faites glisser le médiator le long du bord droit de l'écran pour couper l'adhésif.
N'insérez pas le médiator de plus de 6 mm (1/4 pouce) au risque d'abîmer la nappe de l'écran.
Laissez le médiator en place dans le coin en haut à droite pour empêcher l'adhésif de se recoller.

The display flex is directly on the bottom of the phone. Be very careful when goign around the bottom to not hit the display flex!!!

FixItAgain -

Étape 7

L'adhésif de l'écran est vraiment faible donc vous ne devriez pas avoir besoin de le chauffer une seconde fois. Cependant si l'adhésif semble difficile à couper à certain endroits, vous pouvez chauffer la zone concernée pendant une minute et recommencer.
Insérez un autre médiator dans le bord droit du téléphone, dans un angle déjà ouvert, pour éviter d'abîmer le panneau OLED.
Faites glisser le médiator le long de la partie inférieure du téléphone pour couper l'adhésif.
Il y a un câble fragile sous le coin inférieur droit de l'écran. Si vous sentez que votre médiator reste accroché à quelque chose, retirez-le et réessayez. Assurez-vous que votre médiator est incliné vers le bas et inséré aussi peu que nécessaire pour séparer l'adhésif (pas plus de 2 mm de profondeur).
Laissez le deuxième médiator en place pour éviter que l'adhésif ne se recolle.

Top and bottom edge adhesive were much stronger than this suggests. Corners were very hard to detach. I killed my screen b/c I cracked it at the top. Worked better with heating around whole perimeter like an iPhone.

Erik Sorensen -

WARNING: Be very careful prying the bottom left and right corners! In fact do not insert anything there because there is only a 0.8mm clearance between the screen and the edge, and there's a 0.5mm space between the screen and front glass where if you insert a pick between the screen will crack and break! I had to replace the screen after only doing a battery repair...

bloc -

Unfortunately I did not properly read the comments here. So for the unafraid people like me:

DO NOT insert something into the bottom right! Especially not like it is shown in the image at this location!

Instead I suggest start releasing the screen from right, then left side, then top and as the last step release the bottom, but start with the left corner. Do not pry too much and use a bit more heat as suggested.

There is a small image of this critical right corner in Step 16 (the part at the top is the display and the left corner at the top is the critical right corner here). You'll see the orange cable in the corner which is easy to damage...

Peter - 27/04/23

N’allez pas en bas au début faite le haut d’abord j’ai tuer m’on écran

Jironi -

I can second the warnings - especially at the lower corners the OLED screen is extremely sensitive to breaking - as has happened in my attempt when inserting the pick 2 mm.

Patrick Bohn -

The display flex is directly on the bottom of the phone. Be very careful when goign around the bottom to not hit the display flex!!!

FixItAgain -

Unfortunately despite being very delicate on the bottom right corner I ripped off a tiny bit of the digitizer cable and that resulted in a not working screen... went from spending 50€ for a battery replacement to a 150€ total expense battery + screen... :-( My advice is to not even pry the bottom corner, pry all around, then apply heat carefully until the screen is detaching.

Andrea -

Don't listen to the advice that you don't need to reheat. The bottom corners are very strong and you absolutely don't want to go in more than 1 mm to avoid cutting the display flex. Proceed as follows:

1. Heat and get a pick into the right side (more than 1 mm is never needed, in my case the picks all stayed angled upwards while I did the cutting)

2. Put another pick in right away in the same spot

3. Immediately heat the top corner

4. Move one of the picks towards the top corner cutting all adhesive and let it rest there

5. Heat the bottom right corner

6. Move the other pick to the bottom right corner cutting adhesive (not more than 1 mm, make sure to angle the pick sideways!!)

7. Put another pick in on the right side and move it to the bottom too

8. Heat the bottom and bottom-left corner

9. Very carefully move the first bottom pick around the corner and cut everything on the bottom side

10. Don't insert any new picks on the bottom, always go around the corners with an existing pick

11. Go around the bottom-left corner

12. Insert a new pick on the left side once there is a gap and cut the rest

dragonbane - 20/07/24

Do not even try to insert anything on the right corner. I pulled screen upwards fine without touching that corner. Just heat both sides and insert picks everywhere but that corner. Although be extra careful with 5 cm from top to bottom on the left side, there is also a cable there, although not that easy to brake as the one on the right bottom corner. I managed to replace battery successfully like that

Gabriel Basilio Brito - 25/10/24

Étape 8

Insérez un troisième médiator à un angle inférieur déjà ouvert pour éviter d'endommager le panneau OLED.
Utilisez-le pour couper l'adhésif du bord gauche de votre téléphone.
Si l'adhésif semble résister, chauffez-le pendant une minute et réessayez.
Laissez le médiator inséré le long du bord gauche de l'écran pour éviter que l'adhésif ne se recolle.

The display flex is directly on the bottom of the phone. Be very careful when goign around the bottom to not hit the display flex!!!

FixItAgain -

Étape 9

Une petite grille couvre le haut-parleur interne en haut de l'écran. Si vous n'avez pas de grille de remplacement, attention à ne pas abîmer ou perdre ce composant.
Insérez un quatrième médiator le long du bord gauche du téléphone, dans un angle déjà ouvert pour éviter d'endommager le panneau OLED.
Faites-le glisser le long du bord supérieur du téléphone pour couper l'adhésif.
Si l'adhésif est dur à couper, chauffez le haut de l'écran pendant une minute et recommencez.

The display flex is directly on the bottom of the phone. Be very careful when goign around the bottom to not hit the display flex!!!

FixItAgain -

Étape 10

Une fois que vous avez découpé l'adhésif sur tout le pourtour du téléphone, soulevez délicatement le bord droit de l'écran, en ouvrant le téléphone comme un livre.
N'enlevez pas l'écran pour le moment.
Utilisez un médiator pour couper les restes éventuels d'adhésif.

When I was doing this I found the corners especially the bottom right corner was very glued on!! There are very sensitive cables here and I found part of the old screen's cables (it might not matter if you're replacing the entire screen anyways) were glued onto the phone frame. I came really close to tearing mine, but I saw another review about reapplying heat to get this part loose.

Matt Staff -

Étape 11

Soulevez le haut de l'écran et basculez-le par-dessus le bord inférieur jusqu'à pouvoir le poser face vitrée sur la table.
Attention à ne pas tirer sur la nappe encore attachée à l'écran.

FR : Précision : La nappe a un bout d'adhésif sur la structure du téléphone, il faut bien faire attention de le décoller. Je viens de tuer la nappe de mon écran qui était fonctionnel...

EN : Advice : The ribbon cable is fixed to the structure with a small piece of adhesive. It should be remove prior to anything else. I just killed the ribbon cable of my perfectly used to work screen...

Arnaud Parrot -

On reassembly: this is where you peel off the colored part of the adhesive strips, and make sure to put your speaker mesh (if it's not attached to the screen) back in place. It should rest flat-side-down on the frame over the two horizontal indents in the frame edge, at least it should if I did it right ;)

Toby MacNutt - 29/06/24

If you are afraid of putting stress on the cable by laying the screen down you can just proceed to next steps while grabbing the screen. I did it like that

Gabriel Basilio Brito -

Étape 12

Utilisez une pincette pour délicatement décoller le ruban adhésif noir qui recouvre le cache du connecteur.
S'il est en bon état, vous pourrez le réutiliser au réassemblage. Sinon, remplacez-le par un morceau de ruban adhésif isolant.

How critical is the tape that covers this connector? I realized upon sealing back up my device that I forgot to re-install it. I imagine it mostly is there to prevent dust and moisture ingress?

Alex Cook -

Interestingly this tape was missing in my phone. Maybe that explains some of the display issues I occasionally had, like a thin green line on the right side of the screen which could be "pushed" away.

Fabian Seyfried -

I think I ripped off the cable because it is undistinguishable from the tape! How screwed am I?

Marius Schummer -

Don't bother trying to save the tape. More hassle than it is worth. Just replace with electrical tape

dragonbane -

Étape 13

Utilisez un tournevis Torx T3 pour retirer les deux vis de 2,1 mm qui tiennent le cache du connecteur.
Tout au long de la réparation, gardez la trace de chaque vis et assurez-vous que chacune d'elles revienne à son emplacement d'origine.

A T4 driver worked for me here.

Gabe Maayan -

It is definitely a T4.

Jarl Friis -

Funny ... For me, it was T3. The screws must vary across different phones

Helmut Sporgersi -

T3 worked for me also

dragonbane -

Étape 14

Utilisez des pincettes pour retirer le cache du connecteur de l'écran.
Mettez ce composant de côté pour le réinstaller au remontage.

Étape 15

Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter la nappe de l'écran.
Pour reconnecter les connecteurs pop comme celui-ci, alignez soigneusement le connecteur sur sa prise et appuyez avec le bout du doigt – d'abord d'un côté, puis de l'autre – jusqu'à ce qu'il s'enclenche.
N'appuyez pas au milieu du connecteur tant qu'il n'est pas complètement en place. S'il est mal aligné, le connecteur risque de se plier et d'être endommagé de façon irréversible.

No, why the tip? Use the other flat side that doesn't concetrate all the power on one point and Youre doing a propper job.

Aleksandar Dejanovic -

Only the tip is needed to lift a bit one of the sides and it will pop out. No pressure/power!

Steve Stavropoulos -

Étape 16

Retirez l'écran.
Pour installer le nouvel écran :
Vérifiez si votre écran de remplacement est doté d'une grille de haut-parleur et d'un adhésif en haut préinstallés.
Si c'est le cas, vous n'aurez pas besoin de l'adhésif du haut.
Si ce n'est pas le cas, retirez le grand film protecteur de l'adhésif du haut et appliquez-le sur l'écran (pas sur le châssis). Assurez-vous que la plus grande découpe est alignée avec la grille du haut-parleur.
Suivez ce tutoriel si vous utilisez des bandes adhésives découpées sur mesure.
Utilisez la troisième photo comme référence pour positionner vos adhésifs.
Pendant le premier démarrage après le remontage, l'écran passera par une phase de calibrage. Ne touchez pas l'écran pendant ce processus, car cela pourrait perturber le calibrage et poser des problèmes de tactile.

This step seems to imply that a screen replacement is necessary when replacing the charging port. Is the charging port replaceable without replacing the screen? I understand great care must be taken not to damage the original screen in the procedure, but can it be reinstalled?

David-Alexandre Tremblay -

Yes, it can be reinstalled.

Sam Omiotek -

How long does the calibration process typically take? What does this process look like?

phelpsbc -

Just a heads up: If you are like me and you have accidentally turned on your Pixel 4a at some point while trying to pry the screen, don't worry too much. I was able to just connect my display with the device on. Nothing will happen until you reboot, and then the screen will initialize.

Alex Cook -

It would help to add that the new screen is reattached after adding glue to phone body, not the screen. With the iFixit screen adhesive pieces, a guide to which piece goes where would help also. For that I used this picture: Google Pixel 4a Display Adhesive - Genuine. Yet that is not enough as there is a cover for (speaker?) which is not clear how to apply that.

markjville -

The repair kit comes with Google Pixel 4a Display Adhesive - Genuine but there is no guide on how to apply that adhesive. I sent an email, but Ifixit won't make an instruction page for this.

Mark - 22/09/23

To explain how the adhesive sold by iFixit works, the actual adhesive is the black strip which is held between two pieces of plastic. Line up the pieces with the clear plastic side down. Note that some pieces may be stuck in the box they came in, the plastic is staticky. I recommend that before attaching the new screen you put each piece in place. Remove the clear plastic and place the pieces in place with the colored plastic facing up. The goal is to have the black adhesive strip on the little ledge between the edge and the depression inside the phone. It's the place where you hopefully spent time cleaning out the original adhesive. Place the corners first, then the edges. Press them into place carefully. Before removing the colored plastic attach the phone screen cable and secure it. REMEMBER TO PLACE THE ELECTRICAL TAPE OVER THE CONNECTOR (I forgot to). Then remove the colored plastic, leaving behind the adhesive, and push the screen into place.

Karzyn -

Of note: the seal peace at the top goes under the speaker screen, and the seal looks at first like it is reversed. To install that one accurately adhere it to the Screen itself not the body of the phone. align it where there is a see through circle along the seam and a hole in the adhesive. the sealant should run below the speaker screen. When readhering the screen to the body, remove the plastic guides around the body, then last the seal on the screen and align and install.

USAF MX -

Super, c'est vraiment à la portée de tout le monde, il faut juste un peu de patience et d'audace.

Je viens de réussir le remplacement de mon écran et c'est impec !

Il n'y a que sur la première partie, où il faut insérer le médiateur, que ça a été compliqué pour moi. Impossible de l'insérer du côté des boutons (à droite donc), par contre quand je me suis décidée à tester en passant par l'autre côté, c'est venu tout seul.

Aussi il m'a fallu un certain temps pour comprendre que sur les adhésifs, seul le trait noir colle, et c'est donc à lui qu'il faut faire attention.

Pensez à vérifier que l'écran est fonctionnel avant de le recoller, à mon premier essai la nappe n'était pas bien insérée et j'ai du recommencer l'insertion. Voila, prendre son temps et vérifier que tout va bien à chaque étape et c'est très facile. J'ai mis un peu moins d'une heure.

Caroline Leleu -

I have no idea what to do with the speaker cover mesh. It is on the display I ordered from fix it, but there is blue plastic tape over it, too, so in order for a speaker to work I'd expect the blue sticky tape needs to be removed, but it nowhere says anything about it.

deadrom -

After I clipped the screen in place, I realized that I had forgotten to reattach the screen bracket from step 14. Do you think this is dangerous? Can anyone assess this? In any case, the smartphone turns on and actually makes a good impression.

Many thanks in advance for your assessment!

Kind regards

Tom

Timon Roosen -

Just some advice before you install the screen regarding the earphone grille/mesh at the top.

Something I experienced, was that the speaker grille did not end up being seated quite right when the phone display was stuck down. It is slightly bent, and the top edge is stuck out at a slight angle - it is quite sharp and does not take much to catch a finger on it, when the phone is out of a protective case.

I think this was because I laid the screen in, starting from the top and with it up at quite a steep angle, then working from top to bottom. I would suggest that when setting the new display within the device, that you align the bottom edge first instead.

I am not going to risk lifting the new display to try and re-seat this grille properly, the display cost me a bloody fortune (around 58% of the phone's original price) and I am not risking breaking it over something as minor as that.

nb. I definitely removed all the coloured plastic protective pieces before installing the new screen into the phone.

Andrew - 10/02/24

Just put everything together near perfectly re-using the existing screen so I want to share my experience:

1. This picture shows the correct lineup of the adhesive pieces. Every piece is unique including the corners: https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/...

2. I tried to save the speaker mesh, but it fell off so I had to use the new part

3. After removing the plastic cover from the mesh piece you have a slightly sticky surface. Make sure to attach the mesh in that direction on the INSIDE side of the screen. Line it up properly and it should stick nicely over the cutout

4. Immediately after attach the top adhesive piece from the picture to secure the mesh. Remove the big plastic cover first and stick it onto the screen and the mesh piece in that direction. Note the lineup from this picture: https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/... (the cutout on the adhesive has a perfect match on the display frame)

5. Attach everything else to the phone frame and not the display

Continued

dragonbane -

Continued

6. Make sure to line up all the pieces first based on the picture. Every piece is unique, e.g. each corner has a unique hole and cutout pattern. This is important to get right or you will have the sides overlapping with the corners later. Also the left side piece has the big cutout to allow you to work the display connector without having to remove the adhesive cover too early

7. Always remember that the actual adhesive is the black part and you want it as perfect on the frame as possible. Always attach with the clear side down leaving the strong colored side up

8. Use the tweezers and get the adhesive on from one end to the other carefully. Touching the black adhesive will create a mess fast as does having to retry

9. Reattach the display fully and do a dry test before removing the adhesive covers

10. Gently hold the display up and use the tweezers to remove all adhesive covers

11. Flip the screen around and first attach on the bottom before doing the top

12. Let it rest over night putting some books on

dragonbane -

Three other notes:

1. If you just replace the display it will already come with the mesh and the top adhesive piece pre-installed so you can skip that part. Just don't forget to remove the adhesive cover before sticking the screen on

2. It's EXTREMELY important to properly clean the display and frame first. A lot of adhesive especially remains on the display if you re-use it. Only use plastic tools and be very careful with pressure. Use 90%+ alcohol with some Q-tips to finish the job, but not too much. No alcohol should ever come into contact with a camera lense

3. Use the flat side of the spudger to go over the black adhesive pieces after first attaching them to make sure they are properly sticking to the surface

dragonbane - 20/07/24

The adhesive kit is terrible. Now looking for where to buy some liquid glue to finish this job. Screen and kit are fine, it's just the adhesive strips that are terrible.

sandalwoodsh -

Just buy B-7000 from Amazon. Don't waste time with the adhesive kit

Gabriel Basilio Brito -

important note: don't pull the colored covers off the adhesive immediately! You want to get the ribbon cable and its cover reattached first. Then hold the screen hovering over the base with one hand and gently ease the tabs/covers off your adhesive with the other.

Toby MacNutt -

Étape 17

Avec un tournevis torx T3, retirez les huit vis de 4,3 mm qui fixent la coque arrière sur le châssis central.

Étape 18

Insérez un médiator dans le joint entre le châssis central et la coque arrière.
Faites glisser le médiator le long du bord inférieur du téléphone, pour détacher les clips en plastique qui fixent la coque arrière au châssis central.

It wasn't clear to me from the picture, but don't try to pry the midframe piece up from the back cover. Pry the vertical edge of the back cover just a little out from the edge of the midframe. This releases the clip rather than fighting the clip, and the midframe will pop up from the back cover.

GeorgeR -

Étape 19

Faites glisser le médiator le long du bord gauche du téléphone, afin de détacher les clips en plastique qui fixent la coque arrière sur le châssis central.

Étape 20

Faites glisser le médiator le long des bords supérieur et droit du téléphone, pour défaire les clips restants.

Étape 21

Faites soigneusement basculer la coque arrière depuis le bas du téléphone par-dessus le haut de celui-ci, jusqu'à placer la coque dans le dos du téléphone.
Placez la coque arrière sur votre plan de travail et faites reposer le châssis central sur la coque arrière, en faisant attention à ne pas tirer sur les nappes encore attachées.

Étape 22

Avec un tournevis torx T3, retirez les sept vis qui maintiennent le cache de la carte mère :
Trois vis noires de 2,9 mm de long
Trois vis de 2 mm de long
Une vis de 4,1 mm de long

Étape 23

Avec la pointe d'une spatule, déclipsez le cache de la carte mère depuis les coins droits inférieur et supérieur de la carte mère.

on mine, the fingerprint sensor cable was lightly adherent to the bracket and I almost tore it when the bracket popped up. may want to add something about freeing this up before removing the bracket.

Erik Sorensen -

Similar to Erik, my fingerprint sensor cable was adhered to the bracket and mine did tear. I didn't use the fingerprint sensor, so hopefully this doesn't affect anything else with the phone. Now I know to read the comments! X_X

Jason Birchard -

I found the clip at the top of the bracket very hard to unclip, so much so that it was bending the end of my spudger. In the end I was successful with a spare SIM removal tool instead of a spudger, but in the same manner as pictured in the first 2 photos.

Adam G -

I had the same issues: The cable was attached to the bracket and I had to be very careful in pushing the bracket to the side and reach under it with the spudger to detach the fingerprint cable. And I also found the top clip of the bracket hard to unclip. It worked when I started with the lower one and then pushed the bracket to the side a bit. It seemed to be glued on the top corner.

Fabian Seyfried -

My fingerprint sensor cable was also glued to the bracket, but it seems like a sturdy cable so was not easily damaged

blueslondon -

Ok this was really bad for me I did not understand how the clip was oriented and tried to pull it up lightly first and then strongly, it finally came off but I bent and broke the bridge just a bit, and most importantly the RFID or fingerprint sensor cable (the circle in the back). I don't use it and nothing more was harmed managed to put everything back in place but

Beware of the clips, you have to pull them TOWARDS you, then the bridge will pop-up, don't apply strength upwards before unclicking the 2 clicks towards you (horizontal plane)

rkj -

This cable also ripped for me as the motherboard bracket popped up! It was remarkably fragile

IFuxedIt -

this is the most frustrating step in the entire guide. i used tweezers and pushed to the left of the upper bracket to free it. no upward force is required to free it. be careful

Logan Tristan -

My spudger tip was bending trying to release the bracket - I used a 1mm flathead screwdriver instead, from just below the clip, and it popped up beautifully and with no force. Cables all intact!

Toby MacNutt -

The fingerprint sensor cable is the smaller one and it is indeed glued to the top of the motherboard bracket. First free it with the spudger before proceeding.

Always remove the bottom-left clip first as it reduces force.

I should also note that if you hate re-attaching ribbon cables like me and want to ensure the fingerprint sensor cable won't break then it is enough to only remove the bottom-left clip, gently lift the motherboard up and to the side and use the spudger to detach the battery cable. Steps 26 and 27 can be skipped and you simply keep the back frame attached. Do Steps 28-30 before unscrewing the mid frame for easier pulling on the battery adhesives. After the battery cable is free flip the back cover again, then drop the IPA in if needed to free the battery fully.

Just be careful with pressure. After installing the new battery lift the motherboard up again and re-attach the battery cable which isn't too bad. Then clip the motherboard back into place and proceed.

Fingerprint sensor cable saved!

dragonbane - 20/07/24

Free the smaller cable first. If you do this there is no risk of breaking fingerprint sensor. You will know what to do when you see it. After freeing cable you can pull the metal stuff upwards safely with any force you want. The risk is gone

Gabriel Basilio Brito -

Étape 24

Avec une pincette, retirez le cache de la carte mère.

The cable for fingerprint sensor was slightly glued which I gently removed by using the flat side of the spudger

Nove -

Étape 25

Avec le bout plat d'une spatule, soulevez et déconnectez la nappe de la batterie.

Étape 26

Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule pour déconnecter les deux nappes qui connectent les boutons et le lecteur d'empreintes digitales à la carte mère.

The advice for re-attaching press connectors for re-assembly given in step 15 should be repeated here, since the reader will be moving from the bottom when re-assembling.

GeorgeR - 30/08/24

Étape 27

Retirez la coque arrière.

Étape 28

Retournez le châssis central.
Utilisez une pincette pour enlever les deux morceaux de ruban adhésif noir, qui couvrent les languettes d'extraction de l’adhésif de la batterie.
Si les morceaux d'adhésif restent intacts, réutilisez-les au remontage. Sinon, remplacez-les par du ruban adhésif isolant.

Étape 29

Utilise une pincette pour soulever les languettes d'extraction de l’adhésif de la batterie de façon à les saisir avec vos doigts.
Faites attention à ne pas perforer la partie inférieure de la batterie avec votre pincette.

Étape 30

Essayez de garder les bandes à plat et sans plis pendant cette procédure : des bandes tordues ou avec des plis vont se coller ensemble et casser au lieu de se tirer proprement.
Lentement, tirez sur une languette de bande adhésive de batterie pour l'éloigner de cette dernière, vers le bas du téléphone.
Tirez régulièrement, en maintenant une tension constante sur la bande jusqu'à ce qu'elle sorte de l'espace entre la batterie et le châssis central. Pour de meilleurs résultats, tirez sur la languette à un angle aussi faible que possible.
La bande va s'étirer jusqu'à plusieurs fois sa longueur originale. Continuez de tirer dessus et saisissez-la plus près de la batterie si nécessaire.
Si la languette casse pendant la procédure, utilisez vos doigts ou une pincette arrondie pour retirer l'adhésif restant et continuez de tirer.
Si l'une des bandes se casse en-dessous de la batterie et que vous n'avez pas réussi à la retirer, appliquez quelques gouttes d'alcool isopropylique à 90 % dans l'interstice de la bande en question et penchez le téléphone vers le bord supérieur pour que l'alcool coule vers l'adhésif restant.
Attendez une minute pour que l'adhésif ramollisse, puis passez à l'étape suivante.

Both tapes tore for me after having removed about half of them - they are extremely long. Maybe winding them around a pencil might work better. I had to drop some isopropanol (about 5 drops each) into the holes which worked fine to loosen the remaining adhesive.

Fabian Seyfried -

I've replaced batteries on 6-7 devices before (4 different types of phone). The tabs have ALWAYS broken partway. And for most they broke under the battery and I had to resort to alcohol to remove. These were the first that came out easily without breakage. They seemed less fragile than past ones. Kudos to Google. :-P

Jonathan Stucklen -

in my case one of two broke, I tried to briefly remove the battery without alcohol and that worked as well. Probably depends on how much of the strip is left. My recommendation would be to seriously pull with same amount of force and don't let go in between until the whole strip's out.

Tomas Muehlhoff -

Étape 31

Ne réutilisez pas la batterie si elle a été déformée ou endommagée, car cela représente un danger. Remplacez-la par une nouvelle batterie.
Retirez la batterie.
Si l'adhésif a été retiré avec succès, la batterie devrait s'enlever sans problème.
Si la batterie ne vient pas facilement, appliquez de l'alcool isopropylique à 90 % comme indiqué dans l'étape précédente.
Une fois que vous avez laissé une minute à l'alcool pour ramollir l'adhésif, utilisez un médiator pour faire levier et soulever la batterie sur l'un des bords longs de celle-ci.
Ne pliez pas la batterie.

Please add instructions for applying the new battery tab adjesives and screen adhesives. I'm afraid "do the steps in reverse" does not work for that part of reassembly.

drf24k -

As the previous commenter suggested, please write instructions for reassembly.

Guillermo Feliciano -

I was thinking the same about the adhesive part… how do you reapply adhesive and the tabs removed? Do we need new adhesive tabs?

Lucy SterlingEvents Egede -

I found a lot of the adhesive remained on the body after removing the strips. I don't know if this is because my battery was swollen and overheating, but I'd expect many people reading this may be in the same situation.

blueslondon -

I was eventually able to figure out re-attache the battery and screen, but as the other commenters have suggested a brief explanation of how to do this would be very helpful.

Otherwise it was a grate guide!

Lars Cronje Bjørndal -

Another vote for reassembly. There are a lot of adhesive bits with a blue backing which I'm pretty sure are for attaching the screen, but one appears to be a pull tab for the battery (but only 1 not 2). There's also a long strip with a red backing. I have no idea where that one would go. Finally, one of the screen adhesives stuck to the inside of the box so it's unusable now.

andrea -

I just used double sided tape to secure my new battery. just make sure you do a gravity test to make sure it doesn't fall out and shake it around a bit too if you want. read alot of other posts online of people who did the same. ill post back here if something happens but i think it should work fine

Logan Tristan -

As others commented, a brief explanation of applying the new tabs would be nice.

But, to help you out...the adhesive strips are "keyed". There's a notch in the corner of the black pull tab part for each of them. Line them up so the black pull tab would align with the hole that you pull them through. When you've found that orientation, remove the backing on the side that will stick to the case and put it in (aligning the pull tab first). Also, to make it easier, only peel back a little of the thicker plastic to start and peel the rest as you place it down to prevent it from sticking unaligned. You ideally don't want any wrinkles else it will make it break if you remove it later.

Mine also came adhered to the box and were unusable. If this happened to you, contact ifixit and let them know and they'll ship you what you need. Be sure to tell them if both the battery adhesive and screen adhesive was affected so they send both if you need both. There should be two battery tabs (they're different sized near the top).

Jonathan Stucklen -

The shapes of the adhesive strips match the ones you removed, so if you are having trouble figuring out which is which or how to orient them, scroll back to step 29 and look at where the corners are cut on each pull tab. Setting the pull tab end to line up with the hole, each strip should run the length of the battery compartment. Using the iFixit-provided adhesive, in the version of the kit I used anyway, the case-side of the strips is the clear plastic - pull that off first - and then the blue plastic is the battery side. Don't pull this off until both strips are in place and you're ready to drop in the battery. There is a little overhang of blue plastic at the non-pull-tab end for easy lifting.
(But as others have said, this should be in the guide itself!)

Toby MacNutt -

The battery tab adhesives are the two distinctively formed pieces. They only fit one way due to the unique size:

1. First clean up any old adhesive

2. Line the two pieces up on the phone body, the black latches go over the respective holes you previously pulled them from. Small latch to small hole, bigger latch to the bigger hole

3. Attach the adhesives with the clear side down and strong colored side up

4. They should line up perfectly with the holes when you start perfectly on the right and the corner to put them down, then carefully press them down going to the left side

5. Remove the colored covers using tweezers (a convenient latch to grab is near the holes that are on the plastic) and stick the new battery in, applying some pressure for a minute

I gave detailed notes about the display assembly and adhesives in the step 16 comments so check those out too if you struggle with that part

dragonbane - 20/07/24

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les étapes ci-dessus dans l’ordre inverse.

Déposez vos déchets électroniques dans un centre de recyclage certifié.

Votre changement batterie Pixel 4a ne s'est pas déroulée correctement ? Consultez nos conseils basiques de diagnostic ou notre Forum pour obtenir de l’aide.

Auteur

Sam Omiotek

Membre depuis le 25/02/19

80534 Réputation

47 commentaires

T3 driver is too small. T4 driver fits all screws perfectly.

leehall - 26/05/21

Do you stock the 4A and 4A 5G batteries? my local repair shops will not just sell me the battery.

Peter Cross -

Swapped the screen and battery in one go. Did manage to snap the fingerprint sensor cable when removing the motherboard bracket, it popped off a bit fast, but just replaced that too. Thanks for the awesome guide ?

Eric P -

Thank you - repair went exactly as described for me

rossh - 24/11/21

Tricky. I don't suggest sweating to save the pieces of tape. Just attach new tape for the battery.

T3 Tip on my kit worked, don't know why it didn't for previous commentor.

Fuwah Chez -

Which adhesives do I need for this repair?

Azrael -

Hello Azrael, as noted in the parts section of this guide, you will need Battery Adhesive Strips and Display Adhesive. Both are included in the Google Pixel 4a Battery Fix Kit and available in the iFixit US and EU store.

Manuel Haeussermann -

Thanks.

Do you think using a hair dryer to remove the screen would be better? Or a temperature controlled heat pad? The feedback I read online about the iOpener seems kinda annoying to use.

Azrael -

The iOpener is a good option for most people to make sure to apply heat precisely while making sure to not overheat the device. If you already have a heating mat, that would probably be the best option for controlled heating. A hair dryer should also work quite well, but be careful to avoid overheating.

Manuel Haeussermann -

Thanks! Any idea how easy it is to damage the speaker grills? I saw that the kit has them.

Azrael -

See the following note on step 9: "There's a mesh covering the earpiece speaker on the top edge of the screen. If you don’t have a replacement mesh, take care not to damage or lose this component." You should be careful during the opening procedure, but I'd assume you can reuse it after the repair.

Manuel Haeussermann -

I saw the note, which was why I asked, From experience with certain electronics, there are some components that have an extremely high rate of breaking once you remove it, so was wondering if you had any experience to share.

Azrael -

I don't have hands-on experience with the Pixel 4a, so I'm unable to give a definitive answer, sorry!

Manuel Haeussermann -

Ah, thanks for your help either way!

Azrael -

i'm so sad. i broke my phone trying to install the battery and now the screen just flashes with green lines on it.

Anthony M -

Unfortunately, my screen cracked a whole bunch from the bottom right corner as I was doing step 6 so I gave up there. There could have been some invisible chips or cracks there already that created a weakness or maybe I just wasn't doing it right. Disappointed, but the kit does seem to be fully featured.

Paige -

I'm considering replacing the charging port at the same time - what order of operations would you recommend? Things are the same through Step 27, before they diverge. Should I do the battery first, and then continue with the charging port steps? Or the reverse?

C F -

After finishing the Battery replacement the screen stayed black, it just vibrates short when pressing the power button. charging seems to work since it gets warm. Display did not get damaged when opening, also there was no obvious damages in the areas with the cables.

Any idea what could be the reason for this?

Kai Iskratsch -

I'm having the same problem. I also see my phone on my wifi network so it does turn on and connect. I just get a black screen though. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Brian Begun -

Same problem here, Kai and Brian. Can I ask what you did to resolve it?

Ryan Gibb -

Same problem here. Have you solved it by now?

Muckelchen -

I also got the black screen after replacing the battery. Has anyone managed to solve this problem? If I buy a new screen, will it work?

Franz Hamann -

Hold power and volume down to reboot. Black screen gone.

Karl Hungus -

Unfortunately after following these steps my screen died, and totally bricked my phone. I suggest backing up, and wiping your phone prior to doing this, just in case, if you want to sell it as a broken phone after that, at least it won't have your data on it.

SteveF -

REALLY wish all the comments about the screen going black had been showing prior to my starting this procedure... It looks like they were there, but you need to dig in to them.

SteveF -

FAILED. Phone vibrates once when I try to turn it on. Display stays black

Che Guevara -

Communism always fails.

Repair Deeznuts -

I successfully replaced the battery on my Pixel 4.
Unfortunately, after I replaced the battery on my Pixel 4a (which is slightly different) the screen stayed black.
I can hear my phone respond when I plug in the charger and the phone vibrates when I use the finger sensor.

Albert -

I had significant difficulty with the battery adhesive tabs just not pulling away. If you remove the large black piece of tape on the back of the metal midframe it will expose more of the back of the battery. There is a cutout which runs parallel to the two lines of adhesive. I used goo gone and very light cyclic pressure to gently weaken the adhesive strips and ultimately remove the battery.

Ryan -

It took me about 3 hours to do it: cleaning the glue took some time and I was very scared to break the screen at the beginning.
A tuto to show how to place the stickers with glue would have been nice.
A big thank you in the end, I did it, it works and I'm super proud!!

Mickaël N -

So this is probably the first time i fcked up my own phones screen. The display flex is directly on the bottom of the phone. be very careful when goign around the bottom to not hit the display flex!!!

I would guess that this is why the blacksreens are appearing.

FixItAgain -

sadly I am also the one failed. The screen stays black without any cracks or other visible damage

Artem Goncharov -

Would absolutely not recommend this for beginners, even if you have experience tinkering with PC hardware. Just destroyed my phone by ripping off the screen connector cable, also the display is super sensitive to cracks once it is disassembled.

Marius Schummer -

Mir ist ein Teil übrig geblieben aber weiß nicht von wo. Es ist mir beim der Rückabdeckung abnahme irgendwo rausgefallen.

Es ist ein Gummiteil mit den Maßen: 5mm X 5mm X 2mm. Es mit einem kleinem G beschriftet.

Ist das Teil wichtig? Vielen Dank für die Hilfe im Vorraus

Mike Čech (Miking) -

Mein Google Pixel startér nicht mehr. Habe die Batterie ausgewechselt nachdem diese leicht aufgebläht war. Jetzt weiß ich nicht wie ich das Handy starten soll. Bitte um Hilfe

Danke

Mike Čech (Miking) -

I also got the black screen after replacing the battery. I was very careful when following the instructions so I'm quite disappointed. I now wish I had read the comments before going ahead with ordering the kit and doing the repair myself.

Bilal Soomro -

I broke my screen too. I gave up as the price was not worth it for repair of the screen too. I hate this kind of stupid design.

Azrael -

Hi sir battery replacement

Pixel 4a -

I wish this had a section on replacing the adhesives 😥

alextpedro -

May I know if there are other compatible batteries for the Pixel 4A if we don't mind rooting and typing in the firmware? Or can we use the Pixel 4A with the battery removed and directly connecting via USB-C?

Azrael -

Decent guide. Make sure to read every comment on each step. Maybe watch a YouTube video or two to familiarize yourself with the procedure. Then you will be fine and not break anything (e.g. the display or fingerprint cable). I managed to replace my battery without breaking a single thing in the end. The kit is complete and works. Just make sure you have IPA (alcohol 90%+) and electrical tape. No way around needing it at some point

dragonbane - 20/07/24

Great description! If you have some experience with repairs there is not much that can go wrong. I recomment to test, if the smartphone is running before applying the glue strips. With readig all the information and some preparation it took me nearly half a day to disassamble and reassamble the phone. Most time took the removement of old glue strips. Its a good idea to have some addtional alkohol pads (the ones that are used for disinfection of vaccination spots.

If you remove the old glue strips properly and careful apply the new strips with tweezers you can't tell afterwards that the dispay had been removed.

Olaf G. Sosath -

Great tutorial, this was my first repair and I got through it with no damage - phone is functional again and I didn't break the screen. I was extremely careful with the adhesive removal part - I marked a 1mm and 6mm depth line on the picks, which really helped me observe the guidelines on depth. iFixit could include depth markings in their parts molds if they ever redesign those picks! My only nitpick is the adhesive around the screen - the (otherwise very helpful) diagram shows the top adhesive upside down - mostly because it goes on the screen, not on the case. The written directions are correct, the diagram is slightly wrong. Also, be careful levering the screen up at first - they tell you to open it like a book, which is correct, but do not open it very much as you can stress the screen cable (you are not trying to open it like a book and lay it flat).

Elizabeth H. -

This was my first phone repair and it was successful! I do have a lot of experience working on laptops, and this is much more fiddley, if otherwise familiar. I definitely recommend reading through all of the comments first before starting. Took me closer to 4 hours, but I was carefully re-reading and double checking each step, since phone repair is new territory for me.

GeorgeR -

DO NOT PURCHASE - unless you plan to also replace the screen. This guide is horrible and they should force you to buy the screen as well. It is paper thin and will break when you remove the front glass as they are two separate pieces and your screen will crack. This phone is not repairable, I just wasted $50 and 2 hours of tedious work trying to fix mine. Now I can't even claim the trade in credit on a new phone because it bricked the screen. Even MORE E-WASTE!

Mark Miller -

I don't recommend wasting time with the screen adhesive in the kit. Just order B-7000 or similar from Amazon which is very easy to apply

Gabriel Basilio Brito -

To all the people that AFTER REPLACING the battery got a BLACK SCREEN, then its simple. It happened to me. I could only hear some beeps and vibration response, and my daily morning alarm kept waking me up every morning (funny thing), I used the side buttons to deactivate it. After one month of searching posible causes, i can CONFIRM that the complete screen was damaged, i bought a screen complete replacement and IT WORKED. Explanation: It happens that the screen of the Pixel4a it 100% sensible to changes in temperature, high tactile pressure and more. So the probability of applying too much heat over the screen is high. (Yes, I used correctly the kit, but probably I took too long in the screen unmounting process, and that killed the screen (incredibly, it was not too hot for my hand, but for the screen....YES)) I recommend testing again the screen just after "successfully disconnecting it" from the header. So: black screen solution: You need a new screen.

Franz Hamann -