Remplacement du haut-parleur d'oreille de l'iPhone X sans perdre Face ID

Rédigé par : Jerry Wheeler

Commentaires : 97

Remplacement du haut-parleur d'oreille de l'iPhone X sans perdre Face ID

Difficulté

Modérée

Étapes

Temps nécessaire

Aucune estimation

Introduction

Utilisez ce guide pour remplacer le haut-parleur de l'oreillette sans perdre Face ID.

Le haut-parleur d'oreille n'est connecté au réseau de capteurs avant que par deux points de soudure, donc bien que cette procédure nécessite une quantité minimale de soudure, elle est relativement facile à faire et vous permettra de conserver le réseau de capteurs avant existant et de ne pas affecter la capacité du téléphone à utiliser Face ID.

En fait, vous n'avez même pas besoin de retirer le réseau de capteurs avant pour effectuer cette réparation, ce qui le rend en fait plus facile que le guide complet Remplacement du haut-parleur et du capteur avant de l'iPhone X.

Ce guide a été inspiré par une vidéo YouTube de Tech MD qui a compris comment procéder.

Remplacement du haut-parleur et de la batterie de l'iPhone 11 Pro Max Keep Face ID détaillé - YouTube

Outils

Pièces

Étape 1

Avant de commencer, déchargez votre iPhone en dessous de 25 %. Une batterie lithium-ion chargée peut prendre feu et/ou exploser si elle est accidentellement percée.
Éteignez votre iPhone avant de commencer à le démonter.
Dévissez les deux vis Pentalobe de 6,9 mm en bas de l'iPhone.
Si les vis sont dénudées ou endommagées, remplacez-les.
Ouvrir votre écran iPhone X va endommager ses joints étanches. Pensez à vous procurer des joints de remplacement avant de vous lancer dans une réparation iPhone, ou bien faites attention à ne plus exposer votre iPhone à des liquides si vous le remontez sans changer les joints.

There are 6.81mm long screws!

Daniel - 25/06/20

One of the pentalobe screws is stripped :( - suggestions for how to get it out?

cgtyoder - 09/07/20

same situation here

kaunomarcius - 11/07/20

Same issue for me too, how do I get the stripped screw out?

patronics - 11/08/20

Update: I was able to get the “stripped” screw out using another Pentalobe-2 screwdriver bit from another company. It seems it wasn’t the screw, but the screw driver that was actually stripped. Hence why the other screwdriver kit I got came with 3 of this bit, I suppose.

patronics - 12/08/20

I ended up going to a jewelry store, and they drilled down into the screw, with of course an incredibly tiny bit. That allowed me to insert the P2 driver, and I was able to unscrew it at that point. Good luck!

cgtyoder - 24/08/20

Same issue with the stripping. The tip of the iFixit P2 head in my $70 kit just ground off on the first screw and that was that. Not much you can do.

Kyle Harris - 29/12/20

yes correct the same happened to me, the screws were perfect shaped never been open and as soon as i used the P2 it stripped the screws, seems like the P2 is slightly smaller but Dremel kit with a very small drill bits and precise knife tool is the way to go.

Dulce Vidal - 14/04/21

This step in automatically followed through, without any thought. Why remove these screws? Can anybody explain? The Screen is detachable all the same, with them well screwed in…

Uri -

These screws attach to a plate that’s part of the screen half of the phone. If you succeed in detaching the screen without removing those, it would seem reasonable that you will have damaged that plate or its ability to keep the two halves together.

Dan Long -

@Dan Long is right

Uri -

Clean out the pentalobe screw heads first so the tool goes all the way in. A small sewing needle works well to loosen any build up and then press some putty/chewing gum into the screw head and pull away quickly for a final clean out.

William Olstad -

The this kit should include screws because you’re going to strip them. Can’t even get past step one. Did anybody figure this out

justin -

Never opened my phone ever, when I went to look at the first step.. I noticed one of my screws was stripped. I thought it was impossible, but I removed the non stripped one, then once I got to the stripped one.. I learned my assumptions were correct. I bought this one straight from the apple site years ago ahaha Any tips to remove the stripped screw?

Clarence Williams -

William Olstad's tip about cleaning the screws with a needle and a bit of poster putty worked well for me. There was a lot of crud in there! The opening is shallow, so it's easy to see how the screwdriver wouldn't catch with even a bit of grit in the way, No problem getting the pentalobe screws out with the ifixit screwdriver.

punkinann -

If all else fails, very carefully cut a slot across the head of the screw with a Dremel tool using a diamond bit that dentist will gladly give you - I ask my dentist for used bits; and chuck them in a drill bit chuck designed for Dremel. The slot allows you to use a tiny, straight blade screwdriver. You can reuse the screw or replace it with a new pentalobe screw.

Dan Smith -

Étape 2

S'il est inséré trop loin, un médiator risque d'endommager votre appareil. Suivez cette étape pour tracer un repère sur votre médiator et éviter que l'appareil ne soit endommagé.
Mesurez 3 mm à partir de la pointe et tracez une ligne sur le médiator avec un marqueur permanent.
Vous pouvez également marquer les autres coins du médiator avec des mesures différentes.
Une autre solution consiste à scotcher une pièce de monnaie sur votre médiator, à 3 mm de la pointe.

Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?

Sloan Looney -

Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?

Clay Eickemeyer -

I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.

Clay Eickemeyer -

what fix kit?

Meow Purr -

My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either

WILLIAM HARRIS -

Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.

AndyF -

My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary

Gijs Leegwater -

the picture shows 3 cm but the description says 3 mm's. Which one is it?

John Pena -

That is a misunderstanding. It is a ruler with a scale for cm, it shows 0.3 cm, i.e. 3 mm.

VauWeh -

Oh, come ON!

Big Ed -

It will ALWAYS be millimeters on a phone, but this step is ridiculous, skip it!

Leif DeWolf -

It's not an Ifixit KIT if it doesn't include everything. You'll need to order the opening pic separately. Or head to Walmart like myself and look for guitar pics. Hopefully, this will work just as well.

Jaleeljb97@icloud.com -

No pick in mine as well. It’s really not clear that you have to order this separately when ordering an IPhone SE 202/2022 screen repair kit. Is this the case?

Jackson Castiglione -

Frustrated, I ordered a compact package where everything was encapsulated. Useless suction tools could not separate the screen. If it is unable to decouple the screen, then why sucking suction tools you have provided.

Shourob Datta -

For my kit the triangle pick was stuck inside the box with the screen not with the other tools maybe it's also there for you

Henry Scheibehenne -

Y’all are getting far, FAR too detailed with some of this stuff…. Measuring and marking the pick that you won’t actually use to open the device?!? lol that’s kinda funny. Just heat it up, grab a spudger, and the back just pops right off! The iFixit tech need to stick to the KISS method more often, you know KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!!! Like l, for reals, I’ve been doing this stuff for YEARS and using iFixit guides regularly and this is just ridiculous at this point!

Leif DeWolf -

Étape 3

Si votre écran iPhone X est fissuré, empêchez les fissures de s'aggraver et les éclats de vous blesser en le recouvrant de ruban adhésif.
Recouvrez l'écran de bandes de ruban adhésif, qui se chevauchent, jusqu'à ce que toute la surface soit couverte.
Portez des lunettes de sécurité pour vous protéger les yeux des éclats de verre tout au long de la réparation iPhone.
Si la ventouse n'adhère pas au cours des étapes suivantes, pliez un morceau de ruban adhésif épais (du ruban adhésif toilé p.e.) pour former une poignée et soulevez l'écran de cette façon.
Si tout cela échoue, vous pouvez coller la ventouse à l'écran avec de la superglue.

Étape 4

Les trois étapes suivantes sont consacrées à la procédure avec l'Anti-Clamp, un outil facilitant les procédures d'ouverture. Si vous n'avez pas d'Anti-Clamp, passez à la procédure alternative trois étapes plus loin.
Pour des instructions complètes sur comment utiliser l'Anti-Clamp, jetez un œil à ce tutoriel.
Tirez la poignée bleue vers l'arrière pour débloquer les bras de l'Anti-Clamp.
Insérez le côté droit ou gauche de votre iPhone entre les bras.
Positionnez les ventouses en bas de l'iPhone, une sur le dessus, l'autre en dessous.
Appuyez sur les deux ventouses pour qu'elles adhèrent bien.
Si vous trouvez que la surface de votre appareil est trop glissante pour que l'Anti-Clamp puisse adhérer, vous pouvez utiliser du ruban adhésif pour créer une surface plus adhérente.

Étape 5

Tirez la poignée vers l'avant pour bloquer les bras.
Tournez la poignée dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre, de 360 degrés ou jusqu'à ce que les ventouses commencent à s'étirer.
Vérifiez que les ventouses restent bien alignées entre elles. Si elles commencent à se décaler, détachez-les pour les réaligner.

Étape 6

Chauffez un iOpener et faites-le passer à travers les bras de l'Anti-Clamp.
Vous pouvez également utiliser un sèche-cheveux, un pistolet à air chaud ou une plaque chauffante. Mais gare à la surchauffe, l'écran et la batterie sont sensibles à la chaleur. Faites donc bien attention.
Pliez l'iOpener de façon qu'il repose sur le bord inférieur de l'iPhone.
Attendez une minute que l'adhésif se ramollisse et qu'un espace s'ouvre.
Insérez un médiator sous l'écran et le joint en plastique, et non dans l'écran.
Si l'Anti-Clamp n'a pas créé un écart suffisamment large, appliquez plus de chaleur sur la surface et tournez la poignée d'un demi-tour de plus.
Ne tournez pas plus d'un demi-tour à la fois, et attendez une minute entre chaque rotation. Laissez l'Anti-Clamp et le temps faire le travail pour vous.
Passez les trois étapes suivantes.

DO NOT separate the glass from the plastic bumper or rim around it. These instructions don't clarify that the pick has to be inserted between the plastic rim and the metal body. It is likely that the glass will lift slightly off the plastic surround before the plastic will lift out of the metal body. I had success sliding a card or pick back and forth along the bottom edge of the plastic rim while pulling on the suction cup. Eventually there was a space large enough for the pick to go under the plastic rim.

Anessa -

Thanks for pointing this out! I'll revise this step to clarify this point.

Arthur Shi -

Étape 7

Chauffer le bord inférieur de l'iPhone va aider à ramollir l'adhésif qui fixe l'écran, et donc faciliter l'ouverture.
Utilisez un sèche-cheveux ou un pistolet à air chaud ou préparez un iOpener et appliquez-le sur le bord inférieur de l'iPhone pendant environ une minute afin de ramollir l'adhésif qui se trouve en dessous.
Si vous utilisez un sèche-cheveux ou un pistolet à air chaud, ne chauffez pas trop, car vous risqueriez de détériorer l'écran.

General tip regarding heating necessary to remove adhesive:

consider using a heated tip of a small screwdriver or metal spudger (not the one made of plastic, provided in kit), rather than to heat the device itself.

Uri - 17/12/19

You then need to be careful about the temp of the tool which if hot enough can melt plastic components or harm them. Keeping the heat source (heat gun) far enough away from the object that you’ll eventually melt the glue but would be much harder to melt components. I try to keep 4” or 5” gap between the source & object

Sandman619 - 07/01/20

Thanks for the info. Could a air convector do the job

dominique.br -

When opening a device that has previously been worked on, and on which the adhesive might not have been replaced, be extremely carful when opening the phone. It will open much more easily than expected. If you’re not careful you might rip a cable.

jonpol -

Is this tool required or can I just use the Anti-Clamp by itself.

Mikail -

If you have a 3d printer, heat the bed to 80c and put the phone screen side down on it for 30 secs

philip.joseph123 - 28/04/23

thaks for this advise, I was looking for this as I dont have a heat gun haha, nice hack

Andres Chaparro -

Étape 8

Si vous utilisez une ventouse simple, posez-la au niveau du bord inférieur du téléphone tout en évitant la partie incurvée du verre.

If you were using some form of screen protector, it may come off first as soon as you pull on the suction cup. Do not be alarmed. That is normal behavior.

Alain-Daniel Wa-Baguma - 21/06/20

3m VSB double stick tape will stick to the screen when the suction cups fail (see my comment on step 1)

Tawan Khamapirad - 15/12/20

Étape 9

Tirez fermement sur la poignée de la ventouse en appliquant une pression constante, pour ouvrir une petite fente entre l'écran et le châssis.
Insérez un médiator dans l'espace sous le joint en plastique de l'écran, pas dans l'écran lui-même.
L'adhésif étanche qui maintient l'écran est très solide ; ouvrir cette première fente nécessite beaucoup de force. Si vous avez du mal à le faire, chauffez le tout encore une fois. Puis faites doucement basculer l'écran de haut en bas pour faire céder l'adhésif, jusqu'à que vous ayez ouvert une fente suffisamment large pour y insérer le médiator.

In addition to safety goggles, I would recommend you also wear good gloves to avoid getting cut with the glass as you try to pry it open.

Alain-Daniel Wa-Baguma - 21/06/20

The top about applying more heat and gently rocking the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive did the trick for me. Thank you!

Monil Shah -

There needs to be more clarity on where to shove the opening pick into. There is actually two openings that the pry tool can be forced into: one below the black plastic bezel, and one above the black plastic bezel. When I heated my screen with a warming pad and pulled up the suction cup, it actually pried apart above the black plastic bezel which removed the touch screen from the display panel. With this being the first newer iPhone I'd opened since the 3GS, I didn't realize that I was opening the wrong opening as the directions only mentioned one opening and did not warn of this. I was pretty disappointed in the lack of mentioning this, as I was taking my time and following it to the tee. As a result, it destroyed my original iPhone screen.

Caleb Davison -

DO NOT separate the glass from the plastic bumper or rim around it. As someone else noted, these instructions don't clarify that the pick has to be inserted between the plastic rim and the metal body of the phone. When pulling upwards with the suction cup, it is likely that the glass will lift slightly off the plastic surround before the plastic will lift out of the metal body. I had success sliding a card or pick back and forth along the bottom edge of the plastic rim while pulling on the suction cup. Eventually there was a space large enough for the pick to go under the plastic rim.

Anessa -

Thank you for pointing this out! I've updated the step to reflect this.

Arthur Shi -

The suction cup doesn't work at all... The minimum force I apply to lift it up, it comes off completely. This is very frustrating!!!

Mario Silva -

Étape 10

Faites glisser le médiator le long du coin inférieur gauche de l'iPhone, ce qui va trancher l'adhésif qui maintient l'écran en place.
N'insérez pas le médiator de plus de 3 mm, vous risqueriez d'endommager des composants internes.

Étape 11

Il y a des nappes très fragiles sur le côté droit de votre iPhone. N'y insérez pas le médiator ! Vous risqueriez de les endommager.

Wouldn’t it be better to put this part BEFORE the step where you have to pry open the phone?

Jan D. Höllwarth -

Étape 12

Ré-insérez votre médiator dans le bord inférieur de l'iPhone, et faites-le glisser jusqu'au côté droit pour continuer à séparer l'adhésif.
N'insérez pas votre outil de plus de 3 mm, vous endommageriez les nappes de l'écran.

If you have flat feeler gauges (for adjusting engine valve tappet clearance, ignition points … old school) the .003” thick gauge goes right in. Work your way up in thickness until you can get the pic or supplied pry tool in. Don’t insert metal feeler gauge in too far, just enough to hold crack open. I didn’t need to use the suction cup. I used a hot/cold gel pack heated in microwave to heat edges to soften glue a bit. Made sure it wasn’t so hot I couldn’t stand it on my skin.

William Olstad - 16/01/22

Étape 13

Le bord supérieur de l'écran est retenu par de la colle et des clips.
Glissez le médiator sous le coin supérieur de l'écran tout en faisant délicatement jouer l'écran vers le bas, en direction du port Lightning.
Les clips peuvent se casser si vous forcez trop. Progressez avec prudence et restez patient.
N'insérez pas votre outil de plus de 3 mm. Vous risqueriez d'endommager la rangée des capteurs du panneau frontal.
Glissez le médiator sous le côté opposé pour faire céder l'adhésif restant.

These are the best instructions I’ve ever read for anything.! Thank you!

Peter Andrew - 23/05/18

Étape 14

Tirez sur la petite bosse de la ventouse pour la décoller du panneau frontal.

Étape 15

Ouvrez l'iPhone en tournant l'écran depuis le côté gauche, comme s'il s'agissait de la couverture au dos d'un livre.
N'essayez pas encore d'enlever complètement l'écran, car plusieurs nappes fragiles le relient toujours à la carte mère de l'iPhone.
Comme sur la photo, assurez-vous que le châssis se détache avec l'écran et ne reste pas coincé dans l'appareil.
Appuyez l'écran contre un objet pour le maintenir à la verticale pendant que vous travaillez sur le téléphone.
Lors du remontage, posez l'écran iPhone X à sa place, alignez les clips le long du bord supérieur. Puis appuyez délicatement sur le bord supérieur avant de refermer le reste de l'écran. S'il ne s'enclenche pas facilement, vérifiez l'état des clips sur le pourtour de l'écran et vérifiez qu'ils ne sont pas déformés.

My phone came apart in a different way and looks not right the little box at the top of the display as actually bolted to the top of the frame body I think something went really wrong when I opened it.

Mike Kostersitz - 08/06/20

It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way — only as far as shown in the photo. Otherwise it will strain the thin cable that connects the sensor module and then no more FaceID for you (or, as it turns out me). This could have been made more explicit in the instructions.

Richard Tucker - 28/11/20

It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way … the small stainless steel tabs that hold the screen around the metal frame, that are on the bend place (right side of the phone)… are tend to bend, you can straighten them back to 90 deg. but the plastic base that they are on? very fragile- watch out not to break the plastic bezel … it may come apart of the glass.

dabur872 - 27/04/21

Advice for re-assembly: Before closing up the phone with the seal, check if phone is powering up again and speaker, mic and sensors are still working. If done this check even before installing the board connector bracket in Step 13.

Alexander Nowak -

Étape 16

Dévissez cinq vis Y000 fixant le cache du connecteur de la carte mère, des dimensions suivantes :
Trois vis de 1,1 mm
Une vis de 3,1 mm
Une vis de 3,7 mm
Tout au long de cette réparation, veillez à bien organiser vos vis et à revisser chacune exactement là où elle était, afin d'éviter d'endommager votre iPhone.

One thing I found helpful for replacing the screws was to use only the 000screwdriver tip, without the handle. This way, the tip isn’t magnetized and the screw doesn’t tend to ‘roll’ off the screwdriver tip (the screw has almost no mass, so the head (largest surface) is pulled around to the side of the screwdriver tip when magnetized).

Rich May 23, 2020

ungodly - 23/05/20

My 3.1mm screw had a stripped head, could not remove it. (Factory defect, this iPhone was never opened)

So I had to give up removing the display assembly, and jumped directly to battery replacement, Step 20.

That was tricky as I had to keep the display at 90º with a risk of breaking display connectors, but hopefully the replacement went well.

I would not recommend to do this but to follow the guide, but, in case someone encounters a similar issue, that could help!

vingu - 15/01/21

My 1.1mm screw had a stripped head. Used a 3mm steel drill to cut the head off (just 1 mm deep haha) so i could remove the bracket.

Renout - 07/03/21

Be careful on reassembly. Keep the screen supported and not moving. I had difficulty getting the screws in and ended up ruining the screen connectivity at the back of the screen where the ribbon cables go in near the center. I was trying to hand hold the screen and it ended up moving around too much.

SETH GREEN -

To keep track of the screws, I copy the photos showing their places, then arrange these photos on document in Pages, print it. Next I apply two sided sticky tape (the roll-on type). So all screws have their corresponding places …

Max Glanzmann -

Étape 17

Retirez le cache.
Il se peut que le cache soit légèrement collé. Soulevez-le délicatement mais fermement pour le décoller.
C'est le moment idéal lors du remontage pour allumer votre iPhone et en tester toutes les fonctions avant de le refermer hermétiquement. Veillez à rééteindre complètement votre iPhone avant de continuer votre ouvrage.

I tested it, then proceeded to close up the device without the bracket. Do I need to reopen and install? All connections are good?

monastra7 - 12/08/20

The bracket helps those many connectors underneath maintain good contact. Probably in the short term nothing bad will happen, but I’d hang onto the bracket and reinstall it when convenient.

Jeff Suovanen - 15/08/20

Agree with Jeff

cgtyoder - 19/09/20

I tested all imaginable functionality on the new OLED screen. Taptics are fine. Then, I noticed that the battery wasn't charging. Any ideas as to what could have gone wrong?

Monica -

for me, the replacement battery was completely dead, small panic when the power-on button was pressed, but quickly realised that this was the situation, and now watching the phone take a power cycle.

James Stanbridge -

Before clicking the screen assembly back, I tried to test the iPhone by pushing the start button, but nothing happened. After taking off the bracket, reseating the plugs I tried again - nothing happened! Then I plugged in the charging cable connected with the iMac, and it started immediately. So if the phone does not start using the startup button, it might just be a glitch when reconnecting the battery.

Max Glanzmann -

Étape 18

Faites levier avec la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) ou un ongle propre pour débrancher le connecteur de la batterie de sa prise sur la carte mère.
Essayez de n'endommager aucun des joints en silicone noir qui entourent les connecteurs de la carte. Ces joints sont une protection supplémentaire contre les intrusions de liquide et de poussière.
Repliez et écartez légèrement le connecteur de la carte mère pour éviter qu'il ne rentre accidentellement en contact avec la prise et alimente le téléphone pendant que vous effectuez la réparation.

cosa può succedere se non si disconnette la scheda logica'?

luca.valli - 12/10/20

note: be careful not to crush or puncture your battery at this step!! I gave mine a minor dent, which I hope wont be a problem.. but something to keep in mind for fxlks in the future!

Noal Balint - 19/10/20

Thanks, already did it)

Stephen Hedrick -

Étape 19

Avec la pointe d'une spatule ou un ongle, déconnectez l'ensemble capteur du panneau frontal.

Étape 20

Servez-vous de la pointe d'une spatule ou d'un ongle pour déconnecter le connecteur de la nappe du panneau OLED.
Les connecteurs à pression comme celui-ci se reconnectent ainsi : alignez-les soigneusement et appuyez d'un côté puis de l'autre pour les enclencher. N'appuyez pas au milieu. Si un connecteur est mal aligné, les broches pourraient se déformer et causer des dommages irrévocables.

Snap ‘em in like little Legos.

Ray Johnson - 20/11/20

Maybe the manual should flip step 17 and 18 (as the digitizer cable from 18, is in the way of the OLED cable of step 17) ?

Renout - 07/03/21

Étape 21

Soulevez le connecteur de la nappe de la vitre tactile avec la pointe d'une spatule pour le débrancher de sa prise.
L'espace restreint autour de ce connecteur en complique la reconnexion. Prenez votre temps et alignez-le correctement, puis appuyez soigneusement avec le bout du doigt – d'un côté, puis de l'autre. Vous devriez entendre un clic quand il s'enclenche.
Si jamais une partie de votre écran ne réagit plus quand vous avez fini la réparation, déconnectez la batterie, puis réenclenchez ce connecteur, en veillant à ce qu'il fasse bien clic et qu'il n'y ait ni poussières ni saletés sur la prise.

This was probably the hardest part other than trying to get the screen off with the crappy suction cups. I re-installed the bracket only the find out that the touch screen would not respond to touch. Had to remove the five screws, remove the bracket and reseat the recessed screen connector. Reseating the bracket took another 10+ minutes. I carefully used the angled forceps to grab the cable and align the connector being careful not to damage the cable.

Once you have the connector seated, I would reconnect the battery, power on the phone, and check the touch screen response before re-installing the bracket (step 13).

Tawan Khamapirad - 15/12/20

Yeah, this was probably the trickiest part of the reassembly. The power connector cable kept getting in the way so I moved it carefully but fully out of the way. Then it was a matter of fiddling around with it a bit and being careful not to force it on.

Jeffrey Hoy - 23/03/21

I was positive that I had messed something up, I had powered up the phone to test three different times and everything seemed find except there was no touch at all. On my fourth attempt, I carefully examined everything for dust and debris (blowing gently), and I did notice that a corner of the connector (more like part of the ribbon) was bent slightly, and I straightened it. I don't know if it was the ribbon or some tiny debris, but after reseating a fourth time, it worked.

Pol Llovet -

Very important part of the tutorial. Be careful and patience! In my case the screen and camera didn't respond after assemble, so I tried again to reconnect the connector like tutorial said and it worked well. Now my iPhone feel like a new one 💪🏼

Efrain Maestre -

Étape 22

La nappe de l'ensemble capteur du panneau frontal adhère légèrement en dessous.
Soulevez délicatement la nappe jusqu'à ce que l'adhésif cède.

Do this sensor affect face id?

bonglkv - 14/12/19

It is part of the face id part so yes. This is the ear piece too so if the ribbon tears there is a chance the ear piece will stop working as well.

Stephen Patterson - 13/01/20

Be super careful handling this ribbon particularly. I did a battery install and, when I was done, I had a phone with a new battery and no Face ID. That’s a $300 Apple repair, and no 3rd party shop will touch it. I believe the ribbon lays vertically (i.e., perpendicular to the “floor” of the phone, against the side edge of the battery. During the re-install, I must have forced the ribbon into position after seating the connector, causing fatal flexing of the ribbon. (Don’t know this for sure, but I see another comment saying that this cable is part of Face ID.) Anyway, bottom line: BE CAREFUL REMOVING AND REINSTALLING THIS RIBBON!

Jonathan Pines - 31/05/20

My flex cable was more than lightly adhered in place. I needed to use a guitar pic or similar to help encourage adhesive to separate. I wouldn’t pull too hard like shown in pictures unless you had just the right grip on the ribbon cable so as to avoid damaging flex cable. See note above (5/31/20)

William Olstad - 16/01/22

Bizarre — it turns out my whole front panel sensor assembly came entire off of the front screen and is stuck to the logic board.

Karl Jarvis -

I also found the glue quite recluctant to release so I applied a second or two of heat using the wife's hair dryer which softened it and the cable lifted much easier then. Be careful not to apply too much heat though which could then impact other internal components.

LosBenitos -

Cho ít cồn 90° vào để mềm keo dễ tháo

huuhaukimngan -

my iphone x doesn't have a front panel sensor? in fact, it looks completely different than the picture???

Kenneth McLeod - 14/04/23

@kennethmcleod, most likely you've separated the screen frame from the screen itself. We see this most commonly when people neglect to remove the pentalobe screws next to the charging port. Usually the cure is to take out those screws, then repeat the screen removal process on the frame that's still attached to the phone.

Jerry Wheeler -

You don't need to disconnect the front sensor to change the screen. Just leave it connected and remove from the screen side.

Anthony Boshell -

I have damaged the front panel sensor assembly flex cable. Does it carry multiple channels of info or is it just one solid piece that can be soldered back together? If not, will the phone still work except Face ID?

Bodger Rabbit -

Étape 23

Retirez l'ensemble écran iPhone X.
Lors du remontage, faites une pause ici si vous voulez remplacer les bandes adhésives étanches le long des bords de l'écran.

I tried this and broke the cable can it still repair

Alexis Rodriguez - 13/03/21

At this point I would have found it easier to remove the glue from the edges than later on when I was reassembling it. I bought the kit that had the replacement glue in it.

Grant -

Excellent guide! Would love to have a link to moving the sensor assembly from the old display to the new here.

Nicole -

CAUTION:

Removing the Taptic Engine or Speaker in next step is optional and the guide continues as this was per se needed.

Unnecessary work and also If you remove the speaker you lose the adhesive gasket and this is not included in the scope of delivery of the "Battery replacement" offering.

So do not remove and avoid losing waterproofing.

Julian Gonzalez -

Just to confirm the face id is not affected when replacing the earpiece assembly? Am I correct

mubeen.2011@hotmail.co.uk -

Sorry for the late response, but you are NOT correct. Replacing the earpiece speaker assembly will result in the loss of Face ID functionality. That's the whole assembly, including the speaker, dot projector and flood illuminator. If you unsolder the speaker from the assembly, that can be replaced by itself without losing Face ID, but any other part will cause it to quit working.

Jerry Wheeler -

Étape 24

Retirerp la vis Y000 1.2mm à l'arrière de l'ensemble de l'écran, près du port de la caméra infrarouge.

Étape 25

Sous la vis que vous avez retiré se trouve un petit clip de mise à terre. S'il n'est pas parti avec la vis, enlevez-le maintenant.
Pendant le réassemblage, orientez le clip comme montré. Maintenez le en position quand vous installez et serez la vis.

Étape 26

Retirez deux vis Y000 de plus maintenant l'ensemble haut-parleur/capteur:
Une vis 1.6mm
Une vis 1.3mm

Étape 27

Le haut-parleur de l'écouteur est légèrement collé en place.
À l'aide d'un spudger, soulevez doucement sous le bord supérieur de l'ensemble haut-parleur et retournez-le, vers le bas et loin du bord supérieur de l'écran.
Le haut-parleur reste fixé via un câble flexible très fin. Veillez à ne pas déformer ou endommager le câble.

Étape 28

Retirez le ruban adhésif recouvrant les points de soudure.

Étape 29

Appliquez du flux sur les deux points de soudure.

Étape 30

Tout en tenant le câble flexible à l'aide d'une paire de pincettes, appliquez de la chaleur sur le premier tampon de soudure. Dès que la soudure fond, retirez le fer et soulevez le câble flexible pour l'empêcher de se réadhérer au haut-parleur de l'oreillette lorsque la soudure refroidit.
Répétez l'opération pour l'autre tampon de soudure.

Étape 31

Le haut-parleur d'oreille a été retiré.

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

Auteur

Jerry Wheeler

Membre depuis le 21/03/22

67129 Réputation

4 commentaires

Awesome!

THis will work for iphone XS? I've had two aftermarket screens put in my XS and los teh face Id after the first new screen. I STILL have my ORIGINAL screen so that means I can fix the face id buy swapping this over??

Jason -

@jason_b I responded to your comment on the question where you posted.

Earpiece Replacement and Face ID Functionality - iPhone 11 Pro Max - iFixit

Jerry Wheeler -

Can Face ID be repaired again after damaged when repairing speaker

1Santiago_gh -

I can't give you a definitive answer because it depends on the kind of damage, but there is a chance it could be repaired. However, those kind of repairs require quite specialized microsoldering expertise that not all repair shops are capable of. Some repairs can be done by moving components from one flex cable to a new one, or in some cases the flex can be repaired if that's what's wrong.

If you're unable to locate a shop that has the expertise to do that kind of repair, then the only other choice you have would be to pay Apple to replace the screen. Their replacements come with the earpiece speaker assembly, and when they do the work they'll pair it to your phone so Face ID will work again. Some people can use the Apple self repair program, but unfortunately the iPhone 12 is the oldest phone they support with the program so that won't work for you.

Jerry Wheeler -